Dreamy Aquarius at Santa Cruz Dream Inn

The overuse of words paradise, perfect getaway, and yes, dream, in references to vacation destinations is too obvious to ponder. However, a newly renovated Dream Inn in Santa Cruz (ready for another cliché?) lives up to its name. The magic starts when you open the door to your room – all you can see is the shiny ocean, bursting in trough the glass balcony door. Blinded, you stop for a moment, overwhelmed with its sparkly shine, its salty smell, and its vibrant sound. Sitting on a hotel room balcony is not my idea of … um, a perfect getaway, but here it’s a must. Sit, inhale, exhale, look at the beach beneath, feel the joy. Managed by the San Francisco based boutique hotel company, Joie de Vivre, Dream Inn is the only beachfront hotel in Santa Cruz. Steps from the century-old Beach Boardwalk – the West Coast oldest seaside amusement park, and from the Municipal Wharf with its countless art and music festivals, busy shops and restaurants, Dream Inn is comfy and welcoming, well designed from luxurious beds to a playful color scheme, and brimming with life. Families with children come from Florida and Minnesota, and from everywhere in-between, forming instant friendships around the pool, where kiddies are splashing away and parents are sipping their mojitos, or basking in the sun, or reading under bright orange beach umbrellas.


While fearless surfers, feathery yachts, and playing seals can be observed right from the Inn balcony, a short drive will take you to a historic downtown, known for its tree-lined streets and Art Deco buildings, its clock tower, and its many galleries and bistros, or – to a string of state beaches, like Twin Lakes, Lighthouse Field, and Natural Bridges.

After an invigorating day of exploration/relaxation, for a culinary grand finale, head to the brand new fine dining restaurant on premises, appropriately named Aquarius. Whimsical design, floor to ceiling windows with Monterey Bay sunset views, stunning latticework chandeliers, and efficient service are just a prelude to a perfect meal offered here by Chef Philippe Breneman. Fresh sustainable seafood and seasonal organic produce is not news for fine California establishments, but Food and Beverage Director Joel Mootz makes a special emphasis on supporting local producers from vine growers to fishermen and farmers.
A dinner menu at Aquarius offers some creative choices, like seared tuna in yellow coconut curry sauce in Hooks category; clam chowder with whole mollusks and exquisitely delicious broth (honestly the best, despite other places’ claims) listed under Lines, and California white bass with udon noodles in miso-truffle broth, under Sinkers. Even if you indulge in all three, and swallowed your hook, line, and sinker, all perfectly seasoned and portioned, you must leave some room for house made Sweets. Something modestly called a candy bar is an elaborate construction of dreamy layers of sour cream chocolate cake, peanut butter mousse, hazelnut praline, crunchy chocolate gelato, and chocolate sauce. Perhaps, you won’t dine alone, so go ahead, press your dining companion to order devil’s food cake made of Valrhona chocolate mousse and accompanied by a pretzel-crusted Guinness gelato. Don’t worry; you can always take a run along the beach tomorrow morning… as long as you are sleeping and dreaming at the Dream Inn. Located at 175 West Cliff Drive, Santa Cruz, California. For more information and reservation, call 831-426-4330 or visit www.jdvhotels.com. For Aquarius reservations, call 831-460-5012 or visit www.aquariussantacruz.com. Photography by Yuri Krasov.

Ask Emma

Question: My daughter is going out with a guy who I find too old for her. He is not a bad person, but the age difference is huge. He could have been my boyfriend, if you ask me. He takes her out to eat to nice places; gives her gifts, and recently they agreed to go on vacation together during her school break. No matter what I say she does as she pleases and continues seeing him. I am very distressed and want to stop this madness, but I have no idea what to tell her to make her see what I see. He is no match for her, and if she marries him, very soon he will be good for nothing. Answer: I assume your daughter is over 18, and is not considered your dependent any more. In this case you don’t have much leverage to influence her decisions. However, even if she is an independent adult, you can still voice your opinion in an agreeable and polite way, not provoking her to do anything just in spite of you. Grown up children often act adversely, but they are still listening to their mothers’ advice, even if they don’t always follow it. If your daughter and her boyfriend have marital plans and will go through with those plans, rejoice and participate with all your heart. Their love might be for real, and you wouldn’t want to stay in the way of your daughter’s happiness. More importantly, though, make sure there is no place for jealousy and envy in your own heart. These feelings don’t suit the mother of the bride.

Casa del Agua Villas in Riviera Maya Offer Ultimate Luxury for Vacationing Groups and Families

The end of summer might be the best time to enjoy a luxury villa in the Mexican Caribbean. The U.S. health travel alert to Mexico was lifted in May, and hasn't been renewed since. Endless white sand beaches, privately cooked dinners paired with locally-produced wines, relaxing spa treatments, and explorations into ancient Mayan culture await at Casa del Agua and Villa Zacil Na. Special: Seventh Night Free. Reserve 6 nights and receive the 7th night free. Free airport transfer. $1,000 worth of concierge credit applicable to spa, excursions, transfers or food and drink purchases. Rates are from $1,100 per night per villa. Casa del Agua and Villa Zacil Na are two private luxury villas located in the Mexican Caribbean on the beaches of Puerto Aventuras in Riviera Maya. Both villas are 45 minute drive from Cancún International Airport and 15 minutes from Playa del Carmen. The villas offer ultimate luxury in accommodations, including a private chef, spa, award-winning architecture and personalized hospitable service. Both villas, combined, can accommodate groups of 4 to 18 people. Visit www.casadelagua.com and www.villazacilna.com for more information.

To Mendocino, to the Lighthouse

Mendocino annual music festival markets itself as “Music on the Edge of the World.” It’s not only music, but also pretty much everything else here that is on the edge. Art gallery-rich Main Street is paralleled by an open shoreline of the Headlands State Park, where seagulls are feeding on restaurant leftovers, and arguing sea lions are only interrupted by passing cormorants and pelicans. Blooming succulents on the dunes and wind-twisted wild cypresses are a part of the town as much as artisan bakeries and designer coffee houses. Next to those lucky people who can live their lives here, sipping heritage Zinfandels and Alsatian varietals grown in surrounding vineyards, untamed wildlife, interconnected flora and fauna are omnipresent – so Californian, and so unmistakably Northern. It becomes immediately obvious here that the most populated state in the nation still grants a weary traveler enough solitary places to move closer to Mother Nature, and slowly dissolve in her welcoming embrace. Point Cabrillo Light Station State Historic Park is one of those places where solitude comes in the shape of coastal deer grazing in the dusk on a side of the one-lane road leading to the lighthouse. In the morning, gentle fog envelopes the cypresses around the lightkeeper’s house, and a motley crew of early birds flocks to the feeder, installed by Jim Kimbrell – Innkeeper of the Lighthouse Inn, a senior historian and restoration manager at Point Cabrillo. In midday, the vast deserted coast is sunlit, yet windy, wrapped in fluttering sea foam lace. Then at night, a razor of light from the original Fresnel lens, one of only twelve in the U.S., slices the shore in a circular motion, then again, then again, sliding through the pitch darkness. This enchanted place celebrates 100th anniversary of the light station this year. Open to the public, the light station offers guided tours of the Assistant Lightkeeper’s Museum and the Lighthouse, with two special exhibitions: one of the 1850 clipper brig “Frolic” shipwreck artifacts, another of the rich local history of Pomo people. There are also special lens tours, two of which are coming up on August 8 (National Lighthouse Day) and on September 26 (Juan Cabrillo Day). The Lighthouse Inn, which has to TV, no computer, and no telephone, stays open all year round, pampering its guests with a quiet retreat at the painstakingly restored turn-of-the-century Head Lightkeeper’s House; period furnishings; five-course gourmet breakfast, and afternoon wine and cheese reception in an elegantly-cozy dining room overlooking the ocean. Where the lightkeepers’ wives were once tending to their brood and complaining about their too small kitchens, their never ending laundry, and that relentless fog horn, visitors from near and far are now enjoying a truly privileged stay at the Inn, in the midst of a 300-acre Nature Reserve, immersed in timeless beauty of the rugged Mendocino Coast. Located two miles north of Mendocino, on Point Cabrillo Drive. For more information or to make reservations, call 707-937-6122, or visit www.pointcabrillo.org
Little River Inn is another Mendocino Coast classic, built in 1857, and later on very much appreciated by the Hollywood celebrities of the Glamour Epoch. First discovered by Myrna Loy who was vacationing here in 1939, the Inn soon became a residence of choice for the stars, when films like “Frenchman’s Creek,” with Joan Fontaine and “Johnny Belinda” with Jane Wyman were being shot here. Ronald Reagan, Wyman’s husband, was staying at the Inn along with the cast. Later on, James Dean, Julie Harris and the rest of the “East of Eden” cast were staying here as well. Today, the property is still a charming white-walled Victorian, surrounded by wild cypresses, bougainvilleas and calla lilies with unobstructed ocean views, however, added modern conveniences include Jacuzzi, golf and tennis courses, a gift shop, Ole’s Whale Watch Bar, named after the original inn owner, and a fine dining restaurant with nightly specials. Located at 7901 N. Highway One, Little River, California.Call 707-937-5942 for reservations and information, or visit www.littleriverinn.com.
The tiny village of Little River is used to catering to big tastes, and Stevenswood Restaurant is definitely a place to be for those who seek inspired and imaginative cuisine based on fresh local ingredients. Located at the AAA four-diamond spa resort nestled by the vast and wild Van Damme State Park, the restaurant has a spacious yet cozy dining room with a dramatic fireplace, large tables, comfortable armchairs, tasteful interior design and artwork on the walls. A floor-to-ceiling glass door opens into a lush garden, preceded by an Australian tea tree with myriads of velvety burgundy colored flowers on its branches. This serene and secluded ambiance, plus the friendliest welcoming service set the right mood for the “farm to table cuisine.” The menu changes often, but seasonal freshness, excellent preparation and presentation, and good size portions – not too small, but not overwhelming are guaranteed at any time. Look for Stevenswood Restaurant at 8211 North Highway One, Mendocino. Call 707-937-2810 or visit www.Stevenswood.com. For table reservations, call 800-421-2810.
To better explore the surrounding wilderness, take a 40-mile scenic ride on the Skunk Train from Fort Bragg to Willits and back, through the dense redwood forest, framed with stinging nettles and forget-me-nots. You’ll learn that the train got its name from the 1920s gas powered engine the smell of which preceded the arrival of the first car in plain view. The train runs through the 30 bridges over Noyo River and an antique tunnel, built by the Chinese laborers who came here from the Sierra in 1887-1893. An apple farm, built in 1904 at a cost of one dollar per acre of land at the time, will appear along the tracks, still planted with the ancient apple trees. For more information and reservations, call 866-457-5865 or visit www.SkunkTrain.com


Among the places not to be missed on your visit to Mendocino, named Historical Preservation District by the state of California, there are Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens in Fort Bragg, www.gardenbythesea.org; Jug Handle Nature Preserve, located half-way between Mendocino and Fort Bragg, www.parks.ca.gov; the house museums www.mendocinohistory.org; the ongoing Mendocino Arts Showcase, www.MendocinoArts.com; Ricochet Ridge Ranch (horseback riding) www.horse-vacation.com; Liquid Fusion Kayaking www.liquidfusionkayak.com; the many wonderful art galleries, www.mendocinocoast.com, www.northcoastartists.org, www.artsmendocino.org, www.mendocinostories.com, www.mendocinojewelry.com; and, of course, the outstanding wineries, like Zina Hyde Cunningham in Boonville, www.zinawinery.com; Goldeneye in Philo, www.goldeneyewinery.com, and Meyer Family Cellars in Yorkville, www.mfcellars.com. Photography by Yuri Krasov.

Brüno Enters America Through the Back Door

The adventures of Brüno, a contemporary descendant of Voltaire’s Candide, were conceived and implemented by Sacha Baron Cohen, who in his usual manner holds a humongous magnifying mirror up to the face of America in his new film – three years after the deafening success of his Borat. Tipping all the sacred cows of political correctness and wholeheartedly ignoring that condescending patronizing attitude toward “little people” (as Barbara Walters calls his victims), which prevents the mighty dogs of the American society to openly laugh at the less fortunate, the comedian extraordinaire ventures into all the forbidden territories with a skill of a mature navigator and the audacity of a naturally born genius. No stereotype is spared; no pompous respected societal institution is left untouched, and no poor provincial dimwit is turned away from his/her claim to a 15-minute fame. It is hard to pick the most surprising, outrageously funny moment in the film, just because it all consists of them, tightly packed one next to another. Two precious gay converting ministers in their self-revealing discussions with the deadpan Baron Cohen – always unflinchingly in character, always poignantly sincere (if one has no clue)... Stage parents, who are ready to subject a 30-pound 3-year-old to a liposuction if that’s the way to land her a part as a movie extra… Cute Paula Abdul sitting comfortably on a back of a live Mexican “piece of furniture” talking about her inherent ability to do good to people… During a Florida talk show, where Brüno is gushing about his trip to the “country called Africa” and populated by “African-Americans” he is genuinely surprised at the outrage his every word causes in the audience. His big brown eyes under perfectly bleached biased bangs are so full of frustration and disbelief at people’s reaction when he reveals that he traded his modern electronic device for a baby he calls “an African name, O.J.,” all the way tenderly holding his adopted child in his arms. Through the thickest layers of irony and sarcasm the actor manages to elicit sighs of compassion from the film viewers when narcissistic Brüno breaks up with his loyal sidekick, and little shrieks of shared pain when he is being whipped by some Ms. Vulgarity with grotesque implants and gross tattoos at some swingers’ party he penetrated in his search for the meaning of heterosexuality. Baron Cohen is a real virtuoso when it comes to playing the instrument of square-headed rigidity, pertinent to any righteous little town USA. However, in the LaLa land he exposes that same religiosity, narrow-mindedness and pervasive idiocy, only dressed in more expensive designers’ rags. Never in the mainstream, never all-loved or all excepted, often snobbed down and despised by the show biz establishment, and even more often threatened or slapped with lawsuits, the peerless entertainer once again entered the main stage of our cultural consciousness through the back door, reserved for the irreverent and therefore undeserving of reverence. So be it, the man is still a genius, and the funniest movie in years is [always] his. Directed by Larry Charles; written by Sacha Baron Cohen, Anthony Hines, Dan Mazer and Jeff Schaffer, based on a story by Baron Cohen, Peter Baynham, Hines and Mazer, and characters created by Baron Cohen; directors of photography, Anthony Hardwick and Wolfgang Held; edited by James Thomas and Scott M. Davids; music by Erran Baron Cohen; art directors, Denise Hudson and David Saenz de Maturana; produced by Sacha Baron Cohen, Jay Roach, Mazer and Monica Levinson; released by Universal Pictures. Sacha Baron Cohen (Brüno), Gustaf Hammarsten (Lutz), Clifford Banagale (Diesel), Chibundu Orukwowu and Chigozie Orukwowu (O. J.) and Josh Meyers (Kookus). Currently showing in Bay Area theatres.

Avedon in SFMOMA: Baring the Soul

‘Richard Avedon: Photographs 1946-2004’ became the third hit show at the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art this summer, following the Georgia O’Keeffe/Ansel Adams and Robert Frank major exhibitions already on display.
Notorious for its special attention to the art of photography from the get go SFMOMA became the only venue in the United States for this largest retrospective since Avedon’s death in 2004.
Among the very recent presentations at the San Francisco venue there were William Eggleston, Martin Munkacsi, Lee Miller, Diane Arbus, Lee Friedlander, Jeff Wall, and other big names of contemporary art, each with his/her own skillful degree of penetrating the human soul. What is strikingly Avedon – his meticulously positioned naked models (like in “Andy Warhol and Members of the Factory”) are not as bare as the eyes of the people he chooses for his legendary portraiture. Be it composer Igor Stravinsky, writer Truman Capote, actor Groucho Marx, the Duke of Windsor, or a drifter found along Interstate 80 in Sparks, Nevada, each of Avedon’s portraits comes across as one most important moment in an individual life, caught on film by a stroke of luck (or a genius). Technically speaking, in this day and time of airbrushed matte celebrity cheeks and digitally (if not surgically) enhanced cleavages it is rather refreshing to see human faces and bodies just as they are – warts, freckles and all – fascinating regardless of the status of their owners. A masterpiece of still imagery – Marilyn Monroe in a sequenced halter-top has a wandering gaze and trembling lips, as if her fate has been written on the wall in front of her. Robert Frank, softened by the presence of a dog whose chin he scratches while posing, raises his deep dark eyes for the camera with an unusual expression of vulnerable calm in them. Two portraits – of a murderer Dick Hickock and his father Walter Hickock venture right into the invisible world of human genome brought to light by the laser-sharp artist’s vision. Artists Robert Rauschenberg and Roy Lichtenstein, playwrights Tennessee Williams and Jean Genet, musicians Bob Dylan and the Beatles pose for Avedon in the same participatory manner as do a coal miner, a trucker, a farmer, and a 13-year-old rattle snake skinner from Texas, where the artist was working on a commission to create images of the working people of the American West. Stark white backdrop and black traces of the film frame in his staged portraits add to the feeling of a created environment, a studio shot, an artificially constructed “posing” mode, however, as we now know, the photographer had his own bag of tricks to make his models display those facial expressions he envisioned for them and required from them. A great number of Avedon’s famous fashion shots that put the world of haute couture and its static models into motion opens the show, setting the mood for a flight of fancy. Those are the stories of human struggle, emotions, and the fleeting moments of life written upon the many faces that are fanciful and endlessly engaging. The show runs through November 29 at 151 Third Street, SF. More information at www.sfmoma.org. Images: Richard Avedon, Marilyn Monroe, actor, New York, May 6, 1957; Boyd Fortin, thirteen year old rattle snake skinner, Sweetwater, Texas, March 10, 1979. The Richard Avedon Foundation.

The Pass of the Vines at El Paso de Robles

Still evolving as a Wine Country destination, Paso Robles, California, gradually sheds its dusty farmer/rancher overalls, and tries on new gossamer outfits of gourmet sophistication and world-class tasting presentations. Small family-owned wineries, focused on refined varietals are hotter here than the merciless heat waves that strike at any time from April through October. It’s the rocky limestone and Calcium clay soil of the Santa Lucia mountains, plus that relentless summer sun, combined with cool nights and rainy winters of the Central Coast that make dry-farmed local grapes so energetic, resilient and full of flavor. What used to be called El Paso de Robles – the pass of the oaks – is now wine corridor, or a fair amount of those from downtown (13 wineries) to surrounding areas. Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance (www.prwca.com) firmly put the city on any wine-lover’s map. Many outstanding producers reside along the rural Adelaida Road that winds west off Paso Robles proper. Definitely worth a trip, and… prepare to stop for a wonderful experience. And again… and again… Photo: Paso Robles City Park.


Adelaida Cellars winery, owned by the Van Steenwyk family, sits at 1800 feet elevation and offers breathtaking views, an elegant tasting room, and estate grown cabernet sauvignon, pinot noir and syrah from its certified sustainable fields, along with other wines from a select group of contracted vineyards. Its 2005 Nebbiolo, “a pinot noir of Italy,” aged for 30 months in French oak, has a brilliant garnet hint and a barrel-induced spice. “When young, it’s very tannic,” said winemaker Terry Culton, “I allow these tannins to resolve themselves.” The result is full of character with a satisfying aftertaste. 2007 Viognier, crisp and citrus-fruity, has some peachy notes without excessive sweetness. “Viognier can be flabby,” said Culton. “I tried to stay focused.” Two wine clubs with special events for members, educational seminars, library tastings and vineyard tours attract more visitors each year. Adelaida Cellars actively participates in winemakers’ dinners and seasonal festivals. The winery is located at 5805 Adelaida Road, Paso Robles. (805) 239-8980 / (800) 676-1232; www.wines@adelaida.com. Photo: 1. A view from Adelaida. 2. Winemaker Terry Culton and Sales Manager Paul Sowerby at Adelaida tasting room.


Closer to the ocean, in the Las Tablas district, two founding families – Parrin and Haas operate their Tablas Creek Vineyard, famous for its certified organic crops descendent from Rhone varieties. “I was in importing business with Chateauneuf-du-Pape,” said Robert Haas, Vice-President. “There I met the owner family of Chateau de Beaucastel. We bought the land here in 1990, and brought in the grape material from France. It took USDA three years to approve.” The Rhone vine enthusiasts persevered, and introduced French varieties to the region, previously focused mostly on cabs and chars. “There are over 200 wineries now in Paso Robles,” said Haas, who is now counting his sixth decade in the wine business. “When we just moved here, there were 17.” With the help of winemaker Neil Collins, Tablas Creek produces Mourvedre – a meaty, rich, late ripening grape, which dominates the winery’s signature blend Esprit de Beaucastel, and Roussanne – rich on the palate, with honey character, that comes to about two thirds of Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc blends. Cotes de Tablas is another signature blend here, based on Grenache (red) and Viognier (white). The winery enjoyed 23 thousand visitors last year, and anticipates even more this year, with a full tasting of its wines, VINsider wine club, Provencal-themed gift shop, a shaded patio available for picnics. Tablas Creek is located at 9339 Adelaida Road, Paso Robles. (805) 237-1231; www.tablascreek.com. Photo: 1. Tablas Creek entrance. 2. Robert Haas at work.

Olives is a second-important crop in the Wine Country, and Mt. Olive, a sustainable organic farm, located farther inland, off HW 101, takes full advantage of it. Owned and operated by three families with six children between them, the enterprise started in 1993 with a single olive orchard, and now grows other crops, like walnuts, peaches, nectarines, apples, cherries, plums, strawberries, Asian pears, apricots, and persimmons. The organic sprout house produces alfalfa, bean, broccoli, buckwheat, clover, fenugreek, onion, garbanzo, pea, radish, sunflower, and wheatgrass. “Our three families came from Malaysia, Thailand, and Taiwan,” said Karen Ng, who operated the store with her husband Reiner on the day of my visit. “We do everything here, grow and cure our own olives, dry-freeze fruit, make jams, nougats, juices, caramelized nuts. We make our own herbal teas, dressings, tapenades, and infused olive oil. We train our kids to be happy farmers.” Besides olive tasting and organic fruit and vegetables for sale, the farm offers made to order lunches from its own bakery and pantry. A delectable chicken salad with olive dressing and their signature olive pizza will cost you just over ten bucks, but you won’t soon forget the taste of fresh herbs and vegetables straight from the garden. Lately, the farm added grass-fed beef and free-range chicken to its products, while earthworm beds produce organic fertilizer for added sustainability. Mt. Olive is located at 3445 Adelaida Road, Paso Robles. (805) 237-0147; www.mtoliveco.com. Photo: 1. Entrance to Mt. Olive.



Justin Vineyards and Winery on Chimney Rock Road, which runs up north, parallel to Adelaida, is not just a winery, nor is it just an inn, however, many things here are called just that. JUST Inn is a dreamy retreat for honeymooners, anniversary couples, or those who crave an ultimate and unforgettable Wine Country experience. Four luxury suites: Tuscany, Provence, Sussex, and Bordeaux have royally-high feather beds, all modern amenities, and are lavishly furnished and decorated to create an atmosphere of an exclusive hideaway, fit for a king (or a queen, or both). One of the educational tours of the winery is called JUST Barrels & Bottles, and features a guided sampling from three different barrels to compare American and French, and New and Neutral Oak. A wine club, Justin Wine Society, among other exciting benefits offers JUST-In Case – a seasonal shipment of newly released Cabernet Sauvignon, and the list goes on… Owned by Justin and Deborah Baldwin – both with business and financial education, both knowledgeable in producing Bordeaux varieties – the winery developed into a highly successful enterprise, with strong sales, growing facilities, world-wide distribution, and a bouquet of prestigious awards since 1981, when it was first acquired by the Baldwin family. Not everything here is named after the head of the family. Deborah’s Room – an upscale intimate restaurant on premises is a marvel of good taste and the good old joie de vivre. I won’t soon forget a scrumptious dinner (Executive Chef Will Torres) – delicate English pea soup, melt-in-your-mouth foie gras torchon, and short ribs with truffled puree, paired with big, bold, delightful Justin wines, like a wonderfully tannic Savant, inky-purple signature Isosceles, and Rioja-style Tempranillo (Master Sommelier Joe Spellman). Justin Vineyards and Winery is located at 11680 Chimney Rock Road, Paso Robles. (805) 238-6932; www.JUSTINwine.com. Photo: 1. Deborah’s Room. 2. Just Inn Bordeaux suite sitting room. 3. Justin fermentation tanks.



Along with the growing wine production in the region, downtown area springs to new exciting life as well. Newly built (2007) and centrally located, Hotel Cheval bordering City Park is a stunning example of the rapid transformation of Paso Robles from a country-western ranch town into a tourist destination. A 16-room luxury property is designed to please the most discriminating tastes with cathedral ceilings, private patios and sundecks, outdoor fireplaces, and the most indulgent California king beds with down comforters and 400 thread sheets. A private library, free WiFi and flat-screen TV sets in every room keep the guests entertained, as well as a cozy bar downstairs, called Pony Club, where local wine tastings are paired with gourmet cheeses, cured meats and Marcona almonds. Hotel owners, Robert and Sherry Gilson, are equestrians, so their choice of the theme and names for their cherished enterprise was not only obvious, but also well fitting with the local traditions. A live mascot, named Chester, is a retired farm horse, now offering guests complimentary carriage rides to downtown restaurants on Friday and Saturday evenings. Hotel Cheval is located at 1021 Pine Street, Paso Robles. Call for reservations (805) 226. 9995; www.hotelcheval.com. Photo: 1. Hotel Cheval luxurious bed. 2. Pony Club. 3. Bartender Tracy Mayfield and chef Jessica Beattie at Pony Club.




Among the downtown restaurants, Artisan is king. Owned by Chris and Michael Kobayashi (Executive Chef and General Manager, respectively) it consistently delights with fresh ideas and creative ingredients. BLTA or, as they call it on the East Coast, California BLT [anything with avocado is “California”] here at Artisan comes with red abalone, fried green tomato, and pancetta. An Italianate salad that looks like a piece of modern art, consists of translucent prosciutto, bocconcini (fried cheese ball), smoked almonds, green olive tapenade, and a filet of white anchovy on the top of all other ingredients. Absolutely excellent braised lamb cheeks are served with delectable mascarpone polenta and salsa verde – a rich combination of mint, parsley, garlic, rosemary, oregano, anchovy, capers, olive oil and lemon. Judging from the amount of patrons on a weeknight, and convivial atmosphere in the dining room, Artisan enjoys a well-deserved success among tourists and locals alike. Artisan Restaurant is located at 1401 Park Street, Paso Robles. Call for reservations (805) 237-8084. Photo: 1. BLTA at Artisan. 2. Michael Kobayashi, General Manager. 2. Artisan salad. 3. Michelle at Artisan is a friendly, helpful and efficient server.
There is so much more to see and do in Paso Robles, from visiting antiques mall, gift shops and boutiques, to checking out diverse area artists, united by the Paso Robles Art Association (www.pasoroblesarts.org). And, of course, there are many more wineries to explore, like Clayhouse Wines, an elegant tasting room downtown at 849 13th Street (www.clayhousewines.com), Linne Calodo at 3030 Vineyard Drive (www.linnecalodo.com), or Peachy Canyon Winery, at 1480 North Bethel Road in Templeton, south-west from the city proper, down HW 101 (www.peachycanyon.com). Photography by Emma Krasov.

Love Letter to Washington, D.C. 4th of July. Page 3

Formerly a regional port and a shipping center for tobacco and wheat, Georgetown, MD, founded in 1751, was one of the reasons for the chosen location for the American government. Fully absorbed by bourgeoning capital since, this University neighborhood is now a restaurant Mecca and a potent draw for the after-work crowd, whose median age hovers a tad above 30, with a slight prevalence of [young beautiful] females in the general population. There is no wonder that the amply named premier Capital Restaurant Concepts group operates its 11 highly popular restaurants of different concepts (from full-service to quick-eats) from here. Envious locations, bold designs, creative food prepared by skillful chefs, and friendly service make every CRC establishment worth a try. Alas, on a two-day trip to Washington, D.C. it would be rather threatening to this reporter’s waistline to cover (uncover) them all. To explore the group’s motto, “Create...Lifetime ...Guests,” I chose two of the newer, recently opened ones – Neyla in Georgetown, and Georgia Brown’s – straight up north from the White House (Michelle Obama had her first lunch outing with the DC Mayor Adrian Fenty and his wife here). At Neyla, A Mediterranean Grill, Chef de Cuisine Abdul Hash Housh, who grew up in Lebanon, tirelessly works on adding new touches to his extensive menu, and perfecting the staples. For baba ganoush, he uses smoked eggplant instead of a baked one, which propels the taste of this popular dish into the stratosphere. His lamb sausage Makanek with olive oil and lemon is a symphony of tastes, especially if you have some of his Labneh – Greek yogurt with garlic on a side to enhance it even more. For adventurous first-timers, Lahmajeen, that looks like pizza, but is made with pita bread, ground lamb, tomatoes and onions, would be a good dish to try and fall in love with the Neyla special cuisine. When they say, “Neyla wishes you to savor, not just eat,” you better believe it, and no matter what you order and how full you get with generous portions, and all, do not leave Neyla if you haven’t try a Mediterranean plate of Lamb and Eggplant Puree, with gingered Zinfandel sauce and micro cilantro. That smoky grilled eggplant taste will make me return on my next visit, as a lifetime guest, indeed. Neyla is located at 3206 N Street, NW, Washington D.C. (Georgetown, at the corner of N and Wisconsin). Call (202) 333-6353 or visit www.neyla.com. A lunch at Georgia Brown’s presented some timeless classics with a creative twist – deviled eggs topped with caramelized bacon crumbs; fried chicken livers, marinated in orange juice and sage, served with mustard-soy dipping sauce, and Low Country Shrimp and Grits, with Andouille sausage, mussels and piquant tomato relish. Fresh biscuits, sweet corn bread, and peach-honey butter were irresistible, but then a venison chop with parsnip puree arrived. Lean yet tender, it was perfectly paired with cherry chutney and “redeye gravy” served in espresso cups and made of deconstructed coffee. Apparently, finishing a steak with espresso is a Southern tradition, as the Executive Chef Jim Foss (originally from… Philadelphia, but a great admirer and master of Southern cuisine) kindly explained to me. Georgia Brown’s is located at 950 15th Street, NW, Washington, D.C. For more information, call (202) 393-4499 or visit www.georgiabrowns.com. Photography by Yuri Krasov. 1. Chef Abdul at work. 2. Festive spread at Neyla. 3. Private room at Neyla. 4. Dessert at Neyla. 5. Bar at Georgia Brown’s. 6. Deviled egg at Georgia Brown’s. 7. Shrimp and Grits. 8. Venison chop with redeye gravy.