What’s Brewing in Berkeley

I don’t mean student protests against tuition hikes making headlines these days. Politics is not my field. I mean a literal brew, like in golden pilsner produced by Trumer Brauerei. I mean Come for the Culture Stay for the Food re-branding of Berkeley currently implemented by its CVB. I mean farmer’s market entrepreneurs, creative restaurant chefs and hotel designers, and small business proprietors residing in Gourmet Ghetto. I also mean a national forerunner for all things political and edgy but from the standpoint of art – Berkeley Rep. An electrifyingly written and performed “Tiny Kushner” – a five-miniplay satire by Tony Kushner runs through Nov. 29 here (berkeleyrep.org). Art, food, travel, and other joys of life are my field. Write it off to my personal history in hyper politicized communist state (thankfully now defunct) where I came to despise the spur of the moment political hype and intolerant agitprop, and learned to appreciate the eternal pleasures of human existence. But I digress.
My glorious weekend in Berkeley, all red and orange in the Fall colors, started with a cocktail reception and designer-led tour of the newly renovated Hotel Shattuck Plaza (hotelshattuckplaza.com). A bold statement, made by a peace sign at the entrance, right on the Carrara marble floor; a decadent red glass chandelier, and dramatic black and white columns throughout the lobby were all part of a site-specific project by Ziv Davis LLC team, fully supported and approved by the owners, BPR properties (bprproperties.com), started by B.B. Patel more than 35 years ago.



On a tour, led by Kevin Davis and Robin Ziv, more lavish chandeliers accented with red and grey crystals; feverishly colored wallpaper and crazy-pattern carpets unfolded in all directions, coming to a halt in modern yet moderately toned rooms and suites, all equipped with serene beds and squeaky clean white marble bathrooms. Then a conference room opened to a rooftop sunset view…


Spending a couple of days in Berkeley can turn into a rewarding and educational experience. Saturday morning started with a farmer’s market (ecologycenter.org), brimming with seasonal apples and pears, homemade cheeses and Saint Benoit yogurt, Hog Island oysters, and Blue Bottle Coffee. Scott Howard, Executive Chef of Five Modern American Bistro and Bar located in the Hotel (five-berkeley.com), took us, a small group of inquisitive reporters, on his market walk. He picked Warren Pears for salad, kale for a roasted halibut course, and sucrine du berry squash for a decadent soup.

That night, we indulged in Chef Scott’s haute cuisine, but not before we experienced some street-friendly food options on a Gourmet Ghetto Culinary Tour (gourmetghetto.org). Two Israel kibbutz-inspired collectives still thrive here, four decades after their inception – The Cheese Board (cheeseboardcollective.coop) and Juice Bar (thejuicebar.org). Collectively made decisions, the absence of hierarchy, health insurance for every working body, and no frivolous layoffs present the otherwise unattainable communist ideal in addition to highly marketable capitalist quality of the product. Berkeley residents and visitors queue around the block for the Cheese Board famous pizza.

Another historical institution – Saul’s Restaurant & Delicatessen. Forty years and counting of brisket pastrami, chopped liver, celery soda, and other Jewish deli gems (saulsdeli.com).
The original Peet’s Coffee & Tea (peets.com) was also founded in Berkeley in 1966 by Alfred Peet of Holland whose coffee revolution is now preserved and presented in his memorial room here.




On the same tour, we stopped at Vintage Berkeley Winery (vintageberkeley.com) where good wines from all over the world are priced at $25 or less, and where a bathtub filled with champagne acquired a whole new meaning. We tried Tasmanian honey and habanero flavored truffles at Alegio Chocolate (alegio.com), and picked through lemon, strawberry, and pumpkin cupcakes at Love at First Bite Cupcakery (loveatfirstbitebakery.com).

The last but not least on our way was Gregoire, serving addictive potato puffs with daily changing sauces and founded by M. Gregoire Jacquet. Legend has it that a Michelin quality restaurateur once tired of white tablecloth and waiters in tuxes and thus opened a couple of madly popular locations of his namesake take-out (gregoirerestaurant.com).


Our Sunday brunch was served at Skates on the Bay (skatesonthebay.com), complete with a spectacular view of the Berkeley Marina. House-baked bread, pastries, and flaky croissants preceded frittatas, huevos, and omelets, as well as delectable buckwheat blinis, so dear to a Russian soul.

Next, we embarked on a tour of Trumer Pils Brewery (trimerbrauerei.com) led by lead brewer Jeff Eaton. First opened in Salzburg in 1601, the brand made a smooth transition to Berkeley in 2004, and started winning away gold medals at World Beer Cups year after year.

Should you have some underage individuals in your party on your Berkeley adventure, Lawrence Hall of Science (lawrencehallofscience.org) is a must, however, anyone would turn into a child at this amazing place of hands-on science and up-close discoveries, where you can study the dynamics of an earthquake, Forces that Shaped the Bay (an outdoor exhibit opened in 2003) or pet a live and possibly venomous snake.


Another great place to visit with a family or on your own – University of California at Berkeley Botanical Gardens (botanicalgardenberkeley.edu) – the oldest in the U.S. started in 1890. Bask in the sun in the midst of South American of African shrubbery, marvel at monkey puzzle tree, or study nicotiana cordifolia – a tobacco plant, once seriously considered for hybridization and spreading in California.
Photography by Emma and Yuri Krasov.

Ask Emma

Question: I am a retired single woman. I am doing very well for my age, or so they say. I live in my own home, take care of myself and my two cats, and when I need help around the house or garden I hire people to do the job. My dear old friends are always there for me, so I don’t feel lonely. The problem is my niece who lives nearby. She is my only relative, and I love her to death. Fearing to become a burden, I never ask her for anything. As I said, I prefer hired help. I am afraid that my upbeat attitude made her believe I’m invincible. She comes over a couple times a week to have a casual lunch with me and to cut some flowers from my garden to take home, but she never offers help with shopping or house chores. On weekends, she often brings her husband and her two boys to dinner, but she never offers any help with preparing it or doing the dishes. When I expect her family over, I order catering and pay every time. The following day, I have to pay a cleaning person. Lately, my niece started to ask me to babysit her children almost every weekend. She brings the boys to my home, and leaves them overnight. Sometimes I feel this is too much for me, but I don’t want to say anything. I love her, I want her to visit as often as possible, and I prefer to go through all this to keep her coming over. How can I make it easier on myself?
Answer: At some point you’ll have to speak up, and the earlier you do it the better. If your niece is a kind and understanding relative who cherishes your love and friendship, she won’t get mad if you’ll have a friendly talk with her. She can’t read your mind, so tell her plain and simple that your darling grand nephews will be better off with a hired sitter, since it’s too tiresome for you to watch them overnight. Also, ask her to bring a salad or an entree for dinner or to stay for a chat and a shot of liquor after she’d be done with the dishes. Offer a weekend morning garden activity for her whole family so her boys will have fun with gardening and cut some flowers as a reward to take home. If there is a chore that requires physical strength, ask your niece for her husband’s assistance. They might find it surprisingly refreshing to be of help and you will feel loved in return for all your graciousness. Swallow your pride and ask for help if you need it. Most people prefer to be asked and are happy to oblige. Harboring negative thoughts and fears in silence won’t help your situation, plus your servilitude calls for abuse. Only you can change it.

This Holiday Season Take Your Moscow Visitors on Red and White Fleet San Francisco Cruise

Golden Gate Bay Cruise has been as San Franciscan as the Bridge itself since it first launched in 1939 in time for the Golden Gate International Expo. An hour-long pleasure ride circles around Alcatraz and under the Golden Gate Bridge, complemented by a historical audio tour narrated in 12 languages, including Russian. Red and White Fleet, founded in 1892, offers an array of other exciting cruises, like California Sunset, San Francisco Explorer, hop-on hop-off combos, dining and private cruises. All Red and White cruises depart from Pier 43 ½ at Embarcadero. To celebrate its 70th anniversary and to introduce its new 2010 season pass, the Fleet extended the pass benefits from the date of purchase through the end of this year. The pass includes unlimited rides on Golden Gate Bay Cruise and various discounts on all others, as well as discounted snacks, beverages, and merchandise. Bookings and additional information at redandwhite.com or 415-6773-2900. Photo courtesy of Red and White Fleet.

Rockin’ it in Morro Bay, California

When exceedingly nice people in the town of Morro Bay ask a Russian-speaking journalist if she came here all the way from Siberia, it would be rude to answer with a question under what rock you’ve been hiding? First of all, you are supposed to Discover Your Better Nature here (a marketing slogan for the thriving tourist industry). Secondly, the answer stares you in the face. Morro Rock, a 23 million-year-old 576 feet high volcanic plug, one of nine similarly rounded peaks stretching inland toward San Luis Obispo, is a defining and striking landmark of the California Central Coast, and is located smack in the middle of a picturesque harbor.



Pelicans, gulls, and cormorants conduct their fishing business by the foot of the Rock, while endangered peregrine falcons nest at the top, darting after their prey at 60 mph.
A lively estuary and a bird sanctuary, Morro Bay enjoys temperate climate, abundant wildlife, and a number of coastal recreational activities that attract visitors from near and far year round. Stop at the Chamber of Commerce and Visitor Center right by the water on 845 Embarcadero to get some necessary information, helpful tips, and colorful brochures about local adventures. Most likely, Peter Candela, CEO, impeccably dressed in a crisp shirt and tie, or the Chamber manager Sharon Bufo will be on premises, helping tourists with lodging and dining advice, surfing, golf or hiking recommendations, and generally making them feel welcome. In this coastal town with wide tree-lined streets, ample parking, and cute downtown shops stretched along the waterfront, everything is close by, within reach, or mere steps away… from the Rock.



An excursion to Morro Bay Wine Seller (morrobaywineseller.com) sets the mood for further exploring. Sommelier-proprietors Chris Battles and John Nordhus carry over 300 different wines from all over the world, and of course, from the nearby Central Coast wineries. A tasting bar overlooks the Rock through a bay window, and wine tasting is open to the public during business hours, which include those liquid-gold sunset moments of pure beauty.


A restaurant whose name reflects its distinct feature, Windows on the Water (windowsonthewater.net) owned by Stanley Trapp, is one of a few fine dining options in town. Dungeness ginger crab cake with wasabi aioli, or seared ahi, served with warm green tea soba noodles and mango-daikon slaw are good examples of creative seafood preparations, while old favorites like roasted pork loin with buttermilk mashed and grilled asparagus surely won’t disappoint. A well-selected wine list, nightly tasting flights, and after-dinner specialty cocktails round up the experience. The restaurant sits 144, and has a classy ambiance with plenty of elbow space, black linen napkins, tea lights, and attentive service.

Another dining choice, more on a casual side, Dockside Tognazzini’s is a local institution, a restaurant and a fish market, owned by Bonnie and Mark Tognazzini. The latter is a captain, who comes from a long line of fishermen (pun intended) and whose 38-foot boat, Bonnie Marietta, brings in a catch of the day (bonniemarietta.com). Jolly crowds consume giant oysters simply grilled with lemon and butter in the dog-friendly patio, or drink beer and crack jokes inside, where salmon is King, and where his subordinates are local, fresh, and sustainable.


And then there are more oysters. As the classic put it, “Now if you’re ready, Oysters dear, We can begin to feed.” But not before a brief harvesting trip to the Morro Bay Oyster Company’s 126 acres of briny watery fields (morrobayoysters.com). Fresh-faced young marine biologist – the company owner Neal Maloney rides his boat to the oyster beds, or rather bags made of sturdy plastic net, where no sting rays, no otters or walruses can get to the little darlings growing inside – no natural enemies besides the two-legged ones.
I weep for you, the Walrus said,
I deeply sympathize.
With sobs and tears he sorted out
Those of the largest size.
O Oysters, said the Carpenter,
You’ve had a pleasant run!
Shall we be trotting home again?
But answer came there none.
And this was scarcely odd, because
They’d eaten every one…
(Lewis Carroll)

To observe the life of the Bay closer, Sub Sea Tours’ captain Kevin Winfield offers underwater viewing from a glass-bottom boat as well as whale watching and ocean and estuary wildlife tours (subseatours.com).


If you’d rather be by the stirring wheel, so to speak, consider Pleasant Journeys (yourpleasantjourneys.com). Father and son Adkisons conduct kayak sales, rentals, and guided tours, and now feature Hobie pedal kayaks – fast, maneuverable, and reliable in the kelp and eelgrass-ridden waters of the Bay.

From the kayak, it is easier to watch up close harbor seals, sea lions, and endlessly entertaining otters that spend hours chilling it belly up by the Rock. From morning till dusk tourists are staring at the otters (especially at that perfectly calm mama with a baby) while the curious otters are staring right back at the tourists.
There are some things to see and do on dry land of Morro Bay, too. Unique gift, clothing, and garden shops line the major arteries of the town (all three of them). There are at least two secret gardens behind the front windows. One is hidden at Coalesce book store on Main Street (a great collection of new and used books, including a complete list of titles by Ayn Rand), and another in the back of Beads by the Bay jewelry shop on Morro Bay Blvd. In other stores you can find anything from “velvety” local avocados produced by Morro Creek Ranch (avocadoofthemonthclub.com) to decadent flavored fudge by Morro Bay Mud Fudge (mudfudge.com).


After all the land and sea adventures, you might decide to stay in town overnight. El Morro Masterpiece Motel on Main is clean, comfy, and decorated with framed prints of dozens of masterpieces from Michelangelo to Kandinsky (masterpiecemotels.com).

The room price includes breakfast, however if you consider breakfast the most important meal of the day, you might want to take yours at The Coffee Pot Restaurant (doubleluck.org). It serves stuffed omelets and other full-size American staples and is owned and operated by a local celebrity Lu Chi Fa, a book author of “Double Luck” (memoirs of a Chinese orphan).
For a good cup of coffee and some freshly-baked pastries, come to Top Dog coffee bar (topdogcoffeebar.com). It is adjacent to Coalesce book store, and also has a little garden in the back, where you can spend a couple of preciously peaceful moments with a morning paper and a cup of espresso before a long drive home. More reasons to visit Morro Bay: Christmas Street Faire on November 29, and Lighted Boat Parade on December 5. For information on year-round events and attractions, visit morrobay.org.
Photography by Yuri Krasov.