Thursday, March 31, 2011

Goat Gala from Ferry Market to Redwood Hill Farm

By Emma Krasov, photo by Yuri KrasovGotta like those kids! No, I don’t mean your bratty little darlings… Center for Urban Education about Sustainable Agriculture and Northern California makers of goat milk products celebrate goats and their commitment to human health with the Second Annual Goat Festival on April 16 at Ferry Plaza Market in San Francisco. At the Goat Festival, Redwood Hill Farm and Creamery will present their amazing array of delicious lactose-free goat dairy, and a small troupe of cute little baby goats, who will also star at the Redwood Hill Spring Farm Tours in April and May in Sebastopol, California. Being a responsible sugar-conscious consumer of delicious dairy, this reviewer prefers plain yogurt over anything advertised as digestive health-friendly, yet loaded with sweet calories. However, cow milk plain yogurts can be hit or miss – either tasteless or too sour. Not the case with the goat milk plain yogurt – it’s creamy and subtle, and you can never get tired of its mild and pleasing taste. Apricot-mango, blueberry, strawberry, vanilla, and other Redwood Hill Farm yogurts are gluten-free, contain no refined sugar, and keep their sweet calories at a rather low level. While a variety of goat cheeses quickly became a staple of our everyday consumption, goat kefir is a relatively new kid on the block, and the one that promises to become everybody’s favorite. I was thoroughly impressed with Blueberry Pomegranate Kefir, Mango Orange Pineapple Kefir and a traditional plain, which is a great substitute for buttermilk, sour- or sweet cream, and milk – be it in pancakes, waffles, mashed potatoes, cream soups, or any baked goods. My favorite use of goat kefir – blended with ice cream in a mixer for a decadent milk shake. Both goat yogurt and kefir are made of pure 100% goat milk, and contain all the necessary live cultures. Redwood Hill Spring Farm Tours on April 9-10 and May 7-8 will introduce the public to the Bice family’s award-winning goat herd, including its youngest and cutest members who you can pet and play with. Bring a cooler with ice packs to stock on some award-winning goat cheese, milk, yogurt and kefir at the farm store. Redwood Hill Farm is located at 5480 Thomas Road, Sebastopol, California. Call 707-823-8250 or visit www.redwoodhill.com

Cat Cora’s Kitchen Derives from Gaea

By Emma Krasov, photo by Yuri KrasovA star of Food Network and the first female chef on Iron Chef America, Cat Cora launched her new line of earthly goodness products at the 2011 Winter Fancy Food Show in San Francisco. Of course, being a mother of four, an author of three cookbooks and a proprietor of two restaurants, the Iron Chef Lady had to have a collaborator on this ambitious new endeavor, so she joined forces with Gaea – a leading authentic food company in Greece, named after the mythological goddess of Earth. To acquaint myself with Cat Cora’s Kitchen products, I decided to try two olive oil and tomato paste-based sauces from Gaea, imported from Greece and sold in glass jars. Crete Cooking Sauce, made with feta cheese, Kalamata olives, green bell peppers, and sundried tomatoes, worked best in my home-made bruschetta on a San Franciscan sour dough toast. Cyprus Cooking Sauce, a bold tomato and orange fusion with pronounced orange zest spiciness, played nicely with my whole wheat spaghetti, garnished with avocado, toy box tomatoes and baby spinach. However, it should taste divine complimenting chicken or lamb culinary creations. Use your imagination, and have a field day with Greek sauces from Mother Earth. More information at: www.catcora.com and www.gaeaus.com.

Friday, March 25, 2011

Live and Eat Your Garden at San Francisco Flower & Garden Show

By Emma Krasov, photography by Yuri KrasovEnchanted gardens, secret gardens, and gardens that look like rooms where you can live and be happy abound at the 26th annual San Francisco Flower & Garden Show open at the San Mateo Event Center through Sunday, March 27.
This year’s show title “Life in the California Garden” inspired full size designs ranging from a sandy beach to a classroom surrounded by lush greenery and waterfalls.
Fantastical rock creatures hide in the bamboo grove of Reality Rocks! by Saunders Designs: Landscape + Gardens.Neat and pretty displays of edible plants complement the show’s usual exhibits of native and exotic flowers. A great example comes from UC Berkeley, called Plant Lab and featuring edible plants in hydroponics containers.A Garden for Life: To Fight, to Love, to Live, created by The Garden Route Company and sponsored by Filoli Center uses a large variety of succulents to create a romantic dovecote with real white doves living inside.Pi r Squared by Jeffrey Gordon Smith Landscape Architecture has a bright yellow outdoor tub nestled among the palms and grasses, and utilizes all kinds of discarded materials for its luxurious display, which includes even a bottle of Champagne.Seville Landscape called their creation, It’s California – Relax and Enjoy!, which kind of sums up the main idea of the largest cultivated plant festival in the Western United States.
Cooking demos with celebrity chefs are added this year to emphasize the unique vitality and sustainability of California gardens:
Friday afternoon, March 25- Jeffrey Stout, Alexander’s Steakhouse
Saturday, March 26- Alice Waters, Chez Panisse (lunch, demonstration, lecture)
Sunday morning, March 27- Margo True, Food Editor of Sunset Magazine
Sunday afternoon, March 27- Roland Passot, La Folie and Left Bank
There are also plenty of seminars, a marketplace, and special activities for families with children.The 26th Annual San Francisco Flower & Garden Show is held at the San Mateo Event Center, 1346 Saratoga Drive in San Mateo. More information at: www.sfgardenshow.com.

Wednesday, March 23, 2011

See You Next Weekend at Le P’tit Laurent

By Emma Krasov, photography by Yuri Krasov
Coming to Le P’Ptit Laurent for the first time, I knew I was at the right place when I discovered that Moules Marinieres were made the right way here – with chardonnay, garlic, and parsley (no cream, SVP)!I figured out I was in a great place when I tried sautéed sweetbreads, lightly crusted with walnuts and smothered with aromatic mushroom coulis.Then drunken escargots arrived from Bourgogne – those snails eat Burgundy grapes all their lives before they make it to your plate – need I say more?Finally, I felt a little tipsy myself, thoroughly enjoying the syrah-merlot Reserve de L’Aube Vin de Pays D’Oc, recommended by M. Laurent Legendre, the proprietor, originally from Paris, France.Lapin facon Normande (rabbit stew) reminded me of my grandma’s cooking in the Old Country – lean tender meat with fingerling potatoes bathed in calvados flambé sauce.
By the time my dining companion and I shared his Cassoulet – without much fighting, as the portion was large enough – we’ve met most of the patrons at other tables and learned that the majority of them come here every week. Some do several times a week.The duck leg confit, pork shoulder, and Toulouse sausage Le Cassoulet toulousain Maison was worth coming back for, indeed, same as every single dish we’ve tried so far.Before desserts, I just indulged in the cozy and upbeat ambience of this Francophone little place in Glen Park neighborhood, watching M. Laurent’s casual and friendly interaction with his customers. At one point, he scraped the bottom of a porcelain dish, and spoon-fed some remaining crème-brulee to a dining lady, too polite to do it herself.
I knew I would be back, when our own desserts were delivered to the table – addictively bittersweet Soufflé au Chocolat with coconut sorbet, and Pain Perdu – caramelized French toast that would make you forget everything you ever knew about the French toast.
Le P’tit Laurent specializes in country-style French seasonal dishes using fresh, often locally sourced ingredients. A wildly popular “Neighborhood Menu” consists of three-course prix fixe choices that change weekly, available Sunday through Thursday at $22.00.
Head Chef is Julio Caceres trained at the San Francisco Culinary Academy and used to work for Clementine and Postrio before coming to Le P’tit Laurent.
The restaurant seats 40, plus 8 at the bar, and offers off-site catering.
Le P’tit Laurent Restaurant is located at 699 Chenery Street, San Francisco, California. Open nightly for dinner. Reservations by calling (415) 334-3235. More information at: www.leptitlaurent.net.

Singing in the Rain for Taste of Yountville

By Emma Krasov, photography by Yuri KrasovCelebrated for the 18th time this year, Taste of Yountville fell on a rather stormy Saturday mid-March. Despite the weather – pouring rain and strong wind – gourmet food from the local chefs was duly paired with the best wines of Napa Valley, and the attending public enjoyed the many offerings, as well as arts and crafts fair, and live music by multiple bands.
In the Hotel Luca cozy courtyard, Cantinetta Piero’s executive chef Craig DiFonzo joined forces with Sedna Winery for his spit roasted suckling pig and house made ravioli.

Bistro Jeanty kept its tomato soup hot for all the rain-soaked warmth-seekers. Redd offered another great warming-up option with a delicious white bean soup, and Villagio Inn & Spa joined the trend with its green chili.Bouchon Bistro, in the Edward James Courtyard, presented its beef rillettes on baguette toasts, and Bouchon Bakery – its famous cupcakes and cookies.
There were even garden tours given at the world-famous French Laundry Gardens, attended by more than a few Taste of Yountville revelers.
Rain or shine, all the great gourmet venues and wineries of Yountville are out there year round – just a short drive from the city of San Francisco. More information at: www.yountville.com.

Shelling My Lobster with Chef Liz at McCormick & Kuleto’s

By Emma Karsov, photography by Yuri KrasovA San Francisco staple, an industry giant, and a tourist attraction in a class of its own, McCormick & Kuleto’s Seafood Restaurant in Ghirardelli Square claims that the views of the Golden Gate Bridge and Alcatraz from its every window, plus a versatile ambience and customized menus set it apart. In reality, what defines a 20-year-old institution’s evergreen appeal is its endless creativity.
Receptions with raw bar of fresh local shellfish; banquets and meetings with everything from dim sum to kebabs; lavish happy hour offerings, and kids’ menu with grilled salmon and shrimp Louis are just a few things on top of cocktails of the month, margarita Thursdays, Buck a Shuck Wednesdays, and whatnot besides just seven days a week lunches and dinners.This time, M&K came up with a Cooking Class with Chef Liz, namely the restaurant’s Executive Chef Liz Ozanich, one of a few female execs in the Bay Area, who was introduced by GM Mia Harriman as “a French-style cook and our own Julia Child” at the start of the class.
And then the magic began. For our first course, Chestnut and Artichoke Wonton Ravioli with Maine Lobster, we had to learn how to handle the lobster. Not a shabby cook myself, I got to admit that lobster per se has never been my strong point. I’ve never tried to cook and serve it myself that is..Chef Liz held a boiled lobster high enough for everyone to see how to twist out the tail, break off the fins, crack the shell with a sturdy knife, and open it up like a book.
She shared a secret to fast-made gourmet ravioli: store-bought wonton wrappers and canned chestnuts and artichokes.While deglazing a pan after sautéing shells for a lobster porcini stock, she advised the class, “Don’t use expensive wine – it’s a waste.”For our second course, Petrale Sole Veronique, our chef introduced the class to a slotted fish spatula that wouldn’t break the delicate flesh; explained how to keep butter soft, but not melted, and addressed the utility of canola oil for cooking vs. olive oil for salad dressing.She also cooked red grapes in cream and butter for an unexpectedly delicious sauce to pour over the fish.Finally, our dessert of Port and Dried Fig Compote with Double Rainbow Ice Cream and 30 Year Aged Balsamic was accomplished by bringing to boil port and sugar, adding figs and vanilla bean, simmering for 30 minutes, cooling and spooning the mixture over ice cream, and then drizzling it all with that precious aged balsamic.Since this March class happened to be the first one, was supposed to evaluate the idea, and got sold out early, more classes with Chef Liz must be in the planning.
The best way to learn about upcoming cooking classes would be to get on M&K’s email list while visiting their website.
McCormick & Kuleto's Seafood Restaurant is located in Ghirardelli Square (900 North Point Street) San Francisco, California. Call 415-929-1730 or visit: www.mccormickandkuletos.com.

Jewels of Tequila from Casa Noble

By Emma Krasov, photography by Yuri KrasovPure, smooth, and certified organic are only a few of the fine qualities attributed to Casa Noble tequilas made of single estate grown blue agave plants near the city of Tequila, Jalisco, Mexico. In a recent San Francisco presentation, Jose Hermosillo of Casa Noble, and Karen Foley of Imbibe Magazine introduced three of the ultra premium tequilas paired with Mexican cuisine at Public House and Mijita.While all Casa Noble tequilas are aromatic, oaky-rich and full of character, I found Tequila Blanco, called Crystal to be exceptionally pleasing due to its clarity, silkiness, and subtle lemony-buttery complexity.
Multiple award-winning tequilas from Casa Noble come in jewel-like hand blown decanters with engraved labels and pewter stoppers. Clear glass seems fit not only for Crystal, but also for Reposado, to showcase its rich amber color. The star of the evening, and the most popular among the tasters seemed to be a double-gold medalist Anejo, aged for two years in French oak, with hints of vanilla and spice, and in an amethyst-colored glass.Tequila cocktails presented at the event were made following Casa Noble special recipes – Skinny Margarita, made of Crystal, lime juice, and agave nectar, and Paloma, with grapefruit juice, lime juice, and fizz.Casa Noble tequilas are widely distributed in San Francisco. More information at: http://www.casanoble.com/.

Monday, March 21, 2011

Magic Delivered: Coppelia at SF Ballet

By Emma Krasov
Art is magic delivered from the lie of being truth, said Theodor Adorno, a German philosopher of the last century. His earlier compatriot, E.T.A. Hoffmann delivered the eerie magic of “Der Sandmann,” and a tale of a clockwork doll, brought to life through “organ donation” of a human soul, to put it in contemporary terms.
Made famous by a Leo Delibes ballet (libretto by Charles Nuitter) choreographed by Arthur Saint-Leon almost a century and a half ago in Paris, the story had shed its original morbidity and acquired very different accents.
Coppelia, one of a few light-hearted ballets, is now gloriously delivered by the San Francisco Ballet with Alexandra Danilova and George Balanchine choreography (after Marius Petipa), staged by Judith Fugate and Garielle Whittle, conducted by Martin West, with costume and set design by Roberta Guidi di Bagno, and lighting design by Randall G. Chiarelli.
At the opening on Saturday, Maria Kochetkova (Swanilda/Coppelia), Gennadi Nedvigin (Franz), Dr. Coppelius (Damian Smith) and the entire peerless ensemble created pure magic onstage, all cascading brilliance, beginning to [over-the-top] end.
Maria Kochetkova’s amazing skill and grace, her acting talent and physical beauty can hardly explain the ease with which she moves from her playful character whose very skirts have a mind of their own, into a mechanical doll, limp and rigid at the same time. How she keeps her performance so seamlessly perfect all through the excruciatingly complex second act, and comes out so sprightly in the third, cannot be explained just by the amount of work she puts into her art. It’s gotta be magic.
Coppelia runs through March 27 at War Memorial Opera House, 301 Van Ness at Grove. Tickets: 415-865-2000; www.sfballet.org
Image: Maria Kochetkova in Balanchine’s Coppelia. Credit: Erik Tomasson.

Sunday, March 20, 2011

Throwing Beads, Catching Beads in Lake Charles, Louisiana

By Emma Krasov, photography by Yuri Krasov
Traveling to the city of Lake Charles, Southwest Louisiana, for Mardi Gras, I couldn’t imagine how many discoveries I would make, not only about the unique culture of this Cajun/Creole country, but also about myself.
Clad in a carnival mask, a feather boa, and strands upon strands of shiny beads, I turned into a different person, blessed with ability to grant moments of pure joy to a select few. I felt like royalty, throwing Mardi Gras beads to my subordinates for the day.
Giddy with my unexpected power, high above the crowd, I smiled at the cheering children and their parents, all jumping up and down in excitement with outstretched hands.I generously dealt shiny strands in traditional Mardi Gras colors, allegedly chosen by a Russian Grand Duke Aleksey Romanoff when he came as a guest of honor to New Orleans in 1872. Purple for royalty and justice, gold for purity and power, and green for friendship and faith.
I was standing on a city float, next to its mascot, Gumbeaux Gator, riding at the Sunday Children’s Parade – one of the many celebratory happenings, like Pets Parade; Hot Rods, Motorcycles, and Classics Parade; Zydeco Music Fest, and various krewes’ costume presentations and balls.
By the time I was done with my bag of beads, my right arm was so sore, I could hardly hold my bottle of locally-brewed Abita beer, but that was a great feeling!
Then on Fat Tuesday, I had a chance to re-live the experience from the other side, when I took my place in a cheering crowd on a sidewalk, for the grandiose Krewe of Krewes’ Parade. Standing there in a plastic rain poncho, I was stretching my hand and jumping up and down trying to catch the beads flying out from the festively decorated floats.
I had fully grasped the catching tactic: attract attention of the most athletic bead-thrower on a float, stare him in the eye, wave and smile – and you’d get your beads delivered right into your palm by his precise throw. Mind your neighbor, who might be taller than you, and already overloaded with beads, but who is trying to catch the same strand as you. Pull, if necessary, and if she wins, or if the beads fall to the ground, immediately switch your attention to the next float and the next bead-thrower.
What an amazing way to get high on purity, justice, and faith!




Before the grand parade there was Lundi Gras, a day of the Roayl Gala, when about 50 different krewes presented their lavish costumes to the public. No other city in Louisiana allows the public to view this event. Kings and queens, dukes and duchesses, and princesses and jesters of the court strolled in plain view of the tightly-packed bleachers through the Lake Charles Civic Center arena in a mind-boggling splendor of colorful silk, brocade, gild, sequence, and ostrich feathers.The site of the second largest Mardi Gras after New Orleans, Lake Charles is also home to the Mardi Gras Museum of Imperial Calcasieu, which holds the largest collection of carnival costumes in the world – around 300.
There, our group of traveling revelers embarked on a tour with Dolores and Bernard Beaco – a royal couple of Mardi Gras veterans, married to each other for 55 years and intimately familiar with the intricacies of the elaborate annual celebrations.Then, in a series of special holiday-related lessons, we learned some simple techniques of King Cake decorating from Paula Stevens of Delicious Donuts & Bakery, and some easy steps of Zydeco dancing from a talented and energetic teacher Harold Guillory who also plays washboard in a Zydeco band.Later in the day, we boarded a J&R Carriage horse ride with a local historian A.C. Boudier for an excursion to the Charpentier Historic District, studded with Queen Anne and Victorian architectural gems and majestic oak trees, covered with resurrection fern.A 400-year-old Charles Sallier oak is still growing on the grounds of the Imperial Calcasieu Museum, where we walked with the museum director Susan Reed through a display of historical artifacts, and through the George Rodrigue Blue Dog Days exhibit, also featuring the artist’s rendition of the beginnings of Acadiana.
To get closer to nature, we boarded a luxurious party bus, Bon Temps Express, with our knowledgeable guide, Captain Sammie, for a Pintail Wildlife Drive on the Creole Nature Trail All-American Road and a visit to the newly remodeled Cameron Prairie Visitors Center.On one of our stops, trying to get a closer look at the American alligator, basking in the sun on a swamp bank, I inched toward the official reptile of the state of Louisiana with a little treat of boudin sausage in my hand, but then I remembered a warning not to feed the alligators. Actually what stopped me was my previous knowledge about alligators’ eating habits – they are the only animals who cannot distinguish between a piece of feed and a hand that feeds them.Speaking of boudin sausage… There is an entire Southwest Louisiana Boudin Trail, dedicated to the original local producers of this pork-and-rice delicacy, which can be consumed hot or cold, sautéed or grilled, for breakfast or dinner, with crawfish tails or jalapeno added – and never fails to satisfy. One of the great outlets for delicious freshly-made boudin is a locally-owned grocery store, Market Basket.
Louisiana’s legendary cuisine comes from so many inspired origins it is destined to be a crowd pleaser. Lake Charles location has no shortage of great restaurants putting up some addictive traditional fare.
I made it a point to try as many cups of gumbo in various places as I could. Chicken and sausage gumbo at Pujo Street Café was thick and spicy, the way this old classic is supposed to be.
At Steamboat Bill’s On the Lake, the gumbo was also great, but so were a seasonal crawfish etouffee, and deep-fried shrimp pistolettes, and boudin balls. Not everything is deep-fried in Louisiana. An enormous bowl of crawfish, a house specialty, was not only “boiled with pride,” but finger-licking delicious.An upscale Ember Grille & Wine Bar at L’Auberge du Lac Casino Resort serves haute cuisine, like seared Hudson Valley foie gras with port reduction, black truffle goat cheese baklava, and Kobe and grass-fed beef stakes.At 121 Artisan Bistro we all enjoyed specialty cocktails with familiar names: Hemingway, Brando, Monroe, and a delightful Vodka Blueberry Fizz, as well as local brews from Lazy Magnolia – Southern Pecan nut brown ale and sweet potato creamy Jefferson Stout.
The best brunch I’ve ever had was served at our home away from home – Isle of Capri Casino Hotel, where we stayed, played, and danced to live Zydeco music every night. A recently open Otis & Henry’s Bar and Grill pleases the hotel guests with creative Eggs Benedict on top of artichoke hearts and crab cakes; tender pork chops, and Southern specialties.
Laissez les bons temps rouler!More information: http://www.visitlakecharles.org/.