By Emma Krasov, photography by Yuri Krasov
Dramatic clouds billowing from a giant’s pipe find their reflection in basket-like islands that seem to float atop opalescent waters of Micronesia. The air is sweet with flowering frangipani. It is also salty with sea breezes, and pearly-gray, like a dove’s breast.
This is Palau, an emerald-green archipelago in western Pacific with its more than half-thousand islands. Everything is so incredibly beautiful here, it seems unreal.
The islands – big and small, oblong and round, look like Chia pets – all neatly undercut with a double razor of steady lapping waves and gluttonous snails that live under the rock and eat algae while boring deeper and deeper into the limestone.
With about 20,000 permanent residents and only 30,000 visitors a year, Palau is a dream come true – for divers and eco-adventure seekers as well as for honeymooners and spa junkies.
Tourist accommodations in the Republic of Palau usually provide vacation packages that include room and board, water activities, and sheer relaxation.
Palau Pacific Resort (
www.palauppr.com) where we stayed in Koror, on Arkabesang Island, has neat two-story cottages surrounded by tropical gardens.
Island folklore-style decorated rooms are spacious, comfy, and have all the modern conveniences.
There is a secluded white sandy beach with beds and chairs, kayaks and windsurfing boards.
There are tennis courts on premises, and endless green lawns, and even a pair of resident chickens that add to the rural feel of the resort.
An open-air restaurant, Coconut Terrace, overlooking the swimming pool and the beach serves fresh island fare and a variety of Asian cuisine – tropical fruit, fish, rice, curries, barbecue pork, beef, and chicken, udon and ramen noodles, miso soup, and vegetable salads.
Away from the crowds, in a serene and secluded location steps away from the main lobby, there is a pride and joy of the resort – Bali-inspired Elilai Spa by Mandara, with sensuous spa villas overlooking a quiet lagoon.
Heaven for newlyweds, Palau Pacific Resort already has 100 weddings booked for the next year. It was easy to imagine the bliss in a petal-filled bathtub in a couple’s villa, but my husband and I were on a group diving expedition, and so we proceeded to the well-equipped Splash Dive Center on premises.
On our diving/snorkeling tour with the Splash, we visited a couple of the many famous diving sites of Palau – Big Drop Off and Blue Corner.
The underwater world of Palau is nothing short of a miracle. Thrown into warm shallow water of the Big Drop-Off, I found myself surrounded by myriads of sparkly fishes gliding over coral floor. As if an elaborate and colorful piece of ancient mosaic buried in the sea all of a sudden came alive and streamed in my direction, one piece after another.
I immediately believed there were more than 1,400 species of fish and more than 700 species of coral thriving in the pristine waters of this well-protected archipelago.
The corals formed stacks of golden plates, forests of shiny antlers, fragile pink fans, and spiky lilac brushes. Neon blue, white and yellow damsels, Moorish idols, clown fish and parrot fish were hovering above their pastures of choice. Everything was so close I had to proceed on the very surface of the water careful not to touch anything.
Snorkeling without any direction and happily dazed, at some point I reached the drop-off line, where the water changed from diluted turquoise to dark blue, and where scuba divers from our group have descended into the abyss, now identifiable only by the ascending silvery air bubbles. I turned to get back to the shallow ground, and met a peaceful-looking reef shark nose to nose.
When my husband returned from his scuba dive and I shared my news with him, he just sneered and said, “I saw like 40 sharks down there, all together, and mantas, and Napoleon fish, and a school of giant groupers.” It was no contest, but I was content with snorkeling.
Back on the boat, a bento box lunch with soba noodles, pork belly, and pickled bitter melon never tasted so good.
More information at:
www.visit-palau.com.
Reason number one is rather obvious – AAA Four Diamond Hyatt Regency San Francisco Airport hotel is only seven minutes away from San Francisco International Airport. Reason number two – the property is newly renovated, has a spacious atrium filled with tropical greenery, and goes green and sustainable. Another reason to visit this hotel even if you are not flying anywhere is its Sunday brunch – live jazz, champagne, white tablecloth, and all.
To me, fish and seafood display at any buffet says it all. If your mussels are full-bodied and shiny, if sushi smell of freshly-cooked rice, if salmon is luscious and plentiful, and is not alone, but accompanied by some hot-smoked trout, you have my undivided attention.
Although I couldn’t possibly try all of the treats, I noticed freshly-cut salads; attractive curved meats; fluffy omelets with choice stuffing, prepared by a friendly flamboyant chef; bacon, sausages, and other American breakfast staples as well as steamed dim sum, roasted duck, sautéed beef with shiitake mushrooms and garlic, and other Asian delicacies.
Dessert island spelled my undoing, and I knew it all too well. Therefore, I mostly enjoyed the look of it, but opted for an assortment of fresh melons and a cup of coffee to go with that mellow jazz performed by Margie Baker, the singer, and her excellent band.
Sunday brunch at Hyatt Regency SFO runs from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. at 1333 Bayshore Highway, Burlingame, California. Call for reservations 650 347 1234. More information at: www.hyattregencysf.com
