Fishing for Local Food, Fruit, and Betel Nut in Palau

By Emma Krasov, photography by Yuri KrasovWhy travel to remote destinations if not for exotic foods as well as for many other splendored things to see, hear, smell, and touch.
A trip to Palau is as much a culinary adventure as it is a discovery feast of diving, snorkeling, boating, and jungle-trotting.
Located in the Western Pacific, Palau absorbed culinary influences of Japan, Philippines, Indonesia, Malaysia, and the USA, creating a fusion cuisine of rice and sea food, barbequed chicken and pork, root vegetables, fresh fruit, and spices.
Out of 21 species of spiny, seedy, and sweet-fleshy tropical fruit growing here, I can now easily identify jackfruit, breadfruit, starfruit, dragon fruit, passion fruit, mangosteen, rambutan, and soursop.
I can also brag about having a full serving of stinky tofu (thankfully, the serving was rather small) that smelled like garbage during garbage collectors’ strike, and looked and tasted like fresh asphalt – not that I ever tasted the latter.On an ATV-driving excursion with a famous local tour operator, Fish n’ Fins, while traversing the muddy off-roads of Koror, our group caught a glimpse of a statuesque fisherwoman pulling out a silvery-green needlefish, later cut in half and thrown on a grill for an outdoor lunch in a public park.Our own lunch at the recently open Ngellil Nature Island Resort in Airai featured sweetlip fish, also thrown on an outdoor grill behind the restaurant building. Designed to blend with the tropical environment, the resort has only two traditional architecture buildings – one an eight-room guesthouse, another reception area and restaurant.Chicken leg quarters, pork skewers, and mussels were grilled with barbecue sauce the way meals are prepared for the overnight guests in this all-inclusive resort.My favorite part of the meal was a toy-like leaf basket for steamed rice, suspended on a long string for dipping and pulling out of boiling water.A handsome lunch plate covered with banana leaf contained an American touch – deliciously charred corn on the cob.At a formal dinner at Taj Restaurant in the capital city of Koror, we were treated to the best of Indian cuisine – garlic naan, tandoori fish, saffron basmati rice, mango chutney, and mint yogurt raita.I couldn’t leave Palau without getting a taste of the famous betel nut, widely used throughout the Asia-Pacific as a mild stimulant, energizer, alertness enhancer, and whatever-you-name-it exciter.During an improv hands-on demo in an undisclosed location, a fruit of areca catechu palm (the betel nut) was cut in half, stuffed with a tiny amount of lime from dead corals, some tobacco from a cigarette, and wrapped into a piper betel leaf. I put the thimble-size package in my mouth, and started to chew. It was bitter and puckering. Soon I was foaming at the mouth with bright-orange betel juice, which I was warned not to swallow. I had to run off, hide and spit. And spit, and spit, and spit some more. Suddenly I felt flushed, dizzy, and too warm even for the Palauan 85-degree weather. Was it because of the betel nut or because of embarrassment at my unladylike behavior, I might never know. For more information about traveling to Palau, go to: www.visit-papau.com.

Kayaking with Sharks in Palau

By Emma Krasov, photography by Yuri KrasovBlacktips and whitetips are the most common reef sharks in the waters of Palau – a Micronesian archipelago of 586 islands, 20,000 human inhabitants, 1,500 species of fish and 700 species of corals and anemones.Kayaking in the shallow sunny shark nursery with Sam’s Tours – local water activities operator, it’s not easy to spot a foot-long beige baby shark speedily gliding through the blades of seaweed.
“Look, look, here, here!” scream excited kayakers, pointing to the beige sandy bottom, always too late for others to see the precious baby.
Sharks, whales, dolphins, jelly fish, thriving corals, and various other marine creatures, big and small, are protected by law in Palau, which has the toughest shark protection legislation and is the first officially recognized shark sanctuary in the world. The Federated States of Micronesia are currently creating the largest shark preservation zone in the western Pacific covering more than two million square miles.Oh, the things you will see on a Sam’s Tours’ guided kayak excursion! The trademark Palauan Rock Islands from underneath, while riding literally under the edge of a limestone rock covered with mangrove trees; narrow passages leading to turquoise lagoons; dark caves and sunlit basins, and – fresh oysters, anyone?
There are other things to be seen on a tour. During WWII, Palau was a major Japanese military base. On March 30th and 31st, 1944, US Navy bombers and fighter planes raided the Japanese fleet and sank more than 60 ships and seaplanes in the area. Palau is the resting place for the “Japanese Lost Fleet of the Rock Islands.”A Japanese seaplane buried underwater was on our way when we took a boat back to the shop in Malakal Harbor in Koror – the capital and the most populated state of Palau.
United with Koror by the beautiful Japan-Palau Friendship Bridge, Airai State accommodates visitors in tropical resorts nestled in the mountainous jungle.Airai Water Paradise Hotel and Spa is located in a historic building with rich woodwork, local cuisine restaurant, some alleged resident ghosts, and a great view from every balcony.After a day of kayaking, it was nice to land in a clean room with pink bed canopy, and to indulge in a buffet dinner featuring local delicacies made of taro root, yams, and coconut.The new full-service Ngellil Nature Island Resort, only accessible by boat, boasts an eight-room guest house, inspired by the traditional “bai” architecture and outdoor dining gazebos where fresh local fare is served right off the grill.It also has a shell-ridden private beach from where you would walk to your boat if the tide is too low for it to come closer and get you.Excursions provided by the Ngellil are many, and can take you to the rocky uphill trails through the lush jungle to see its many hidden treasures.One of them is Bat Cave, an ancient limestone formation with fantastic stalactites and stalagmites, dark indentations, dripping water, slippery floors, and other attributes of a horror movie. An entire nation of harmless and endlessly fascinating creatures clings to its crevices, and erratically flies around spooked by our flashlights.
Another treasure of the jungle is Yap Stone Money, quarried from Palau’s limestone. The money is huge, round, weighs a ton, and cannot be transferred even by its owner.A medium-size person can comfortably fit in – in some explicit “We’re in the Money” fashion. This kind of money was not supposed to change hands, or at least not often. The stone money was used to decorate rich citizens’ front yards for all the neighbors to see and respect the power it provided.No matter what’s your adventure in Palau, be it scuba diving, snorkeling, kayaking, or boat-assisted dry land excursions into the jungle, every great day in Palau is usually a bad hair day. But who would remember that after all? For more information about Palau, go to www.visit-palau.com.

Chocolate: A Crash Course

Introducing guest reviewer Alex Krasov, photography by Yuri KrasovMDP Signature Chocolates by Chef Michael D. Poole, gold medal winner for the Best Caramels
A well-spent Sunday morning in Fort Mason includes a stop at the farmer’s market, a stroll on the Marina, and on this lucky occasion: a delicious lesson in the fine art of fine chocolate. The San Francisco Chocolate Salon in Fort Mason is clearly a meeting of the minds, but it’s also a meeting of the mouths. And if you come ready to learn (and taste), you won’t leave disappointed.Au Coeur Des Chocolats, gold medal winner for Most Delicious Ingredient Combination and other awardsAfter five years of successful annual, and since last year semi-annual exhibitions, the Chocolate Salon is now a staple on the discerning San Francisco food scene – and with good reason. The Salon brings together chocolate artisans from all over the Bay Area (and beyond) under one roof. The result is a crash course in the finest and mostly local chocolate in Northern California.A box of Au Coeur Des Chocolats, gold medal winner for Best Presentation and Packaging and other awardsWhether you’re a sucker for toffee and truffles, or nuts about milk chocolate-covered nuts, you’ll find something delicious at the Salon. And if you keep an open mind and mouth, you’ll learn that the days of milk vs. dark are long behind us. Here, you can sample rosemary chocolate, munch on endless interpretations of the trendy dark chocolate-caramel-sea salt combo, and savor a lavender-lemon truffle that weaves the delicate floral and citrus notes with perfect precision. You can also try numerous chocolates laced with Shiraz and Chardonnay, or nibble on crunchy cacao nibs – the subtlety-flavored bits of roasted cocoa bean that are popping up on menus everywhere.Seattle Chocolates, silver medal winner for Best Milk ChocolateAnd while chocolate is certainly the raison d'être of the Salon, it’s not a solo show. Other confections like tasty French-style macaroons make an appearance, and wine is frequently poured to illustrate perfect pairings. Stick around long enough and you’ll also spot celebrity chefs and hear talks with chocolate masters from around the Bay.
But the best part of the Salon is that you get to satisfy not only your sweet tooth, but also your curiosity. Have a question about cacao? Can you really taste the difference between 75% and 78% dark chocolate? Where do the world’s most sought-after cocoa beans grow? These presenters know their stuff, and they’re willing to share the knowledge. Ask them anything about their craft – just be prepared to hear the long answer and sample the results of their labor.Toffee Talk with Catherine J. Hughes, Chief Toffee Talker, Top Toffee in Salon winnerWalking among the tables and chatting with exhibitors you can’t help but feel that these chocolate makers are the lucky few – the people who found their passion, and now earn a living of it. For how many of us wish we could answer the question “what do you do?” with something as simple, as delicious, and as universally beloved as “chocolate”? And that’s the life lesson you walk away from the Salon with: whether it’s your job, or your dessert – just make sure you love it. That, and: too many truffle samples will give you a stomach ache…but it’s totally worth it.
From the Editor: 2nd Annual Fall Chocolate Salon took place on November 13, 2011. Its participants included dozens of chocolatiers, confectioners, winemakers and other culinary artisans. Amano Artisan Chocolate from Utah received the most gold medals for Best Dark Chocolate, Best Milk Chocolate, Top Artisan Chocolatier, and other awards.
Don’t miss the new public television program, “Chocolate FRENCH,” based on the bestselling book of the same title. The series pilot will air locally on KRCB public television (Ch. 22, 722) on December 17th at 4pm.
The 6th Annual San Francisco Chocolate Salon is coming March 4, 2012. More info: www.SFChocolateSalon.com

Wine Road Affairs in Northern Sonoma

By Emma Krasov, photography by Yuri KrasovOne of the most spectacular Wine Country events of the year, A Wine and Food Affair, showcasing the many distinguished winemakers and chefs of Russian River Valley, Alexander Valley, and Dry Creek Valley in Sonoma County, California, celebrated its 13th anniversary this year.
World-renowned wineries, big and small, put their best pinots, cabs and zins forward, reinforced by some inspired culinary creations. Here’s to the chefs who like to cook with wine, and especially those who sometimes add it to the food!Kendall-Jackson Wine Center paired its Jackson Hills Cabernet Sauvignon with cabernet-braised oxtail in heirloom tomato and okra sauce. Stone-ground grits rounded up the perfect match of tender falling off the bone meat and piquant sauce.Old World Winery presented its star wine to be released in spring 2012 – the 2009 Abourious – the 100% Abouriou from the only Abouriou vineyard in the new world.For food, Helena’s Kitchen prepared duck sandwiches made of leg meat basted with the mixture of espresso, wine, orange juice, tomato paste, honey and spices.The very merry and friendly Merriam Vineyards paired their Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon with a short rib recipe from Chef Josh Silvers.The ribs, slowly braised in port and cab, and porcini mushroom powder, and served over perfectly mashed potatoes, were about as perfect as it gets in terms of cold weather and body- and soul-warming cuisine.Mill Creek Winery complimented its rich Zinfandel with grilled lamb skewers from Catelli’s Restaurant.Not only the meat was skillfully medium-rare, but the house-made herbed pesto with pine nuts, garlic and Parmesan added a magic touch creating a well-balanced food-and-wine pairing of star quality.Twomey Cellars poured their equally enticing Merlot and Pinot Noir to be consumed with Chef Dominic Orsini’s plump Sicilian lamb meatballs with vin cotto.The house-made “cooked wine” was just an icing on the cake of the most elaborate meatballs prepared with sautéed shallots, preserved lemon, pistachios and olives.
The coveted annual cookbook, Tasting Along the Wine Road, Volume 13, accompanied the event, featuring wine and food recipes from 105 participating wineries.
The upcoming annual events are: Winter Wineland in January 2012 and Barrel Tasting in March 2012. Find out more at: www.wineroad.com.

Surprise me! at Origen

By Emma Krasov, photography by Yuri KrasovA Berkeley newcomer, farm-to-fork Origen on Telegraph Avenue is rather a cross between a restaurant and a culinary circus. Every day, co-chefs Daniel Clayton and Trace Leighton and sous chef Cassandra Madison come up with so many incredibly creative uses for their locally sourced ingredients that it only makes sense to come here as often as possible to check on their next invention of the hour.And when I say the hour, I mean it.
Take a signature Origen dish – paella of the hour. At 8 p.m. on the night we dined, paella ingredients included rainbow trout, green beans, and preserved lemon emulsion – and that was the freshest and most nuanced paella I’ve ever tried, my visits to Valencia and Andalucia notwithstanding.Another great choice for the evening was a daily five-course chef’s tasting menu with wine pairings.
Duck confit starter was served with apple and honey cream haroset, and paired with Jerez.Warm fennel salad was topped with cooked Peruvian lantern scallops, orange and avocado slices, and a sprig of mizuna, and paired with crisp and refreshing Picpoul de Pinet.The most surprising and amazingly delicious dish on the chefs menu – chicories agnolotti with brown butter, yogurt, fig conserve and pink pepper was paired with Burgundy aligote, and seemed to me a shining star of all the vegetarian preparations known to man.
The freshest lightly cooked rainbow trout filet came on a bed of celery root puree, topped with cut green beans and cilantro, and sprinkled with citrus “caviar” from a little-known Australian fruit, finger lime, which happens to grow in Chef Daniel’s backyard.
The trout was paired with wonderful Anderson Valley pinot from Londer vineyards.
Suffice it to say that the wine list at Origen, hand-selected by Chef Daniel, nears 400 bottles from almost all wine-producing regions of the world.
Our cheese course included hard goat milk cheese from Andante Dairy, maple syrup shortbread, quince jam, and was paired with a 5-year Madeira blend.The sweet finale came with Chef Trace’s pear and raspberry pandowdy, generously complimented with stem ginger cream, and smelling of fresh baking slash childhood memories. Late harvest char from Lolonis, Mendocino, was surely a match made in heaven.Besides the most inspired food, the ambience at this week-old restaurant deserves its own praise. The earthy color scheme seems very much in tune with the rustic cuisine and sustainable practices of the place, while comfortable booths, intimate sittings for two and a huge communal table made from a reclaimed Bay laurel tree, offer an aesthetic approach to visitors’ comfort.
Origen is located at 2826 Telegraph Avenue in Berkeley, California. For more information and reservations call (510) 848-9200 or visit: www.OrigenBerkeley.com.