Sunday, May 27, 2012

Cassava Bakery and Café: Small Place Big Taste

By Emma Krasov, photography by Yuri KrasovIt seems owner/chef of Cassava Bakery and Café in San Francisco Kristoffer Toliao and managing partner Yuka Ioroi discovered a secret to success – treating your job as your life. Up before dawn and back home late at night, the husband-and-wife team spends a large part of the day tending to their flourishing business that gains popularity among their food-forward neighbors by the hour.
Importantly, the newly-opened café is located in Richmond district of San Francisco, where there is no shortage of cheap and rather decent eateries.
What sets Cassava above and beyond the rest is [read my lips] E-L-I-T-E haut cuisine fare served in a tiny, yet tastefully appointed dining room at very democratic prices.
While breakfast, lunch, and brunch are the main focus here, recently introduced pop-up tasting dinners sell out the moment Yuka announces them on Cassava’s website and Facebook page.
These dinners are offered by reservation only, and to only 12 people at a time to assure the necessary quality of preparation, service, and attention to detail, highly valued by the proprietors. Their diligent pursuit of the best possible results in cooking with the fresh local organic ingredients shows in every small bite on the daily changing menu.  
On the night I was lucky enough to get a taste of Cassava, the soup was made of Japanese sweet potato and ginger, with a touch of raw carrot juice and olive oil blended in, and with shreds of romaine and radish as decorative topping. By its look and taste, this soup alone could’ve been served in a high-end establishment, where I’d pay at least twice of what is charged here.
Then came the most incredible quiche – silky, soft, and mushroom-strong in perfectly crumbly dough stuffed with Roma tomatoes, crimini, and Vermont white cheddar. For five bucks a pop, I could eat those quiches every day for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, especially that Chef Kris makes different ones every day, and only about 15 at a time – once again, to maintain the quality and integrity of his creation.
My ham and cheese sandwich was perfectly grilled, crunchy, flavorful, with each ingredient holding its own, and – nicely complimented by a fresh burst of sprightly asparagus imbedded between the Black Forest ham and Vermont white cheddar on golden-toasted Semifreddi’s deli white.
Another Kris’s masterpiece is called cauliflower cassoulet, and is baked with roasted tomato sauce; redolent of fennel and cumin, and crowned with a pouched egg with a bright gooey yolk. Not a stranger to this easy-going cruciferous, responsive to any cooking mode, I must admit that I’ve never tasted a cauliflower this good.        
Although Chef Kris said it more than once that he did not consider himself a baker, his walnut brownies, and especially the peanut butter and corn flake cookies (Yuka’s mother’s time-honored recipe) were as stellar as the rest of his food.
Cassava serves an assortment of Semifreddi’s pastries (addictive brioche “morning buns”) and Ritual Coffee starting at 7 a.m. on Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday. On Saturday and Sunday it opens at 8 a.m. and closes each day at 5 p.m. Full breakfast menu is served from 8:30 a.m., lunch from 11 a.m. On  weekend, a sit-down Japanese breakfast is served, and brunch starts at 10 a.m. Closed on Tuesday. Dinner nights are on Fridays at 6:00 and 6:30 p.m., and on Sundays at 4:30 and 5:00 p.m.
Since hours are subject to change, and availability of the goodies can be limited it is advisable to phone, text (415.640.8990) or email info@cassavasf.com ahead.
Cassava Bakery and Café is located at 3519 Balboa Street, San Francisco, CA 94121. Daily menu changes are announced on Facebook, Twitter, and on the menu board at the café, as well as on the website: www.cassavasf.com.

Saturday, May 26, 2012

Chocolatier Blue: The Woman in the Parlor

By Emma Krasov, photography by Alex Krasov

The Chocolatier Blue occupies a charming little parlor with an inviting outdoor seating on Fourth Street in Berkeley. Danyelle Forte, a sweet-looking redhead in a severe Motorhead T, works her magic within its pastel-colored walls.
Danyelle is the Pastry Chef with the Chocolatier Blue patisserie – the woman behind the chocolate counter, and behind the ice cream vitrine, and in front of her customers – ages 2 to 92, and in front of the tabletop stove she operates in-between making sundaes, shakes, floats, and malts to order.
Please don’t rush her when she is stirring egg yolks for her custard-based incredibly delicious ice cream, or they might turn into a scramble. Making everything from scratch in old-school fashion, and not relying on industrially produced ingredients is the credo Danyelle works by, so her cherry or apricot sorbet would only last with the season, then other flavors and their creative combinations would roll in. 
The Chocolatier Blue parlor has about 24 seasonal flavors to choose from, and several staples like vanilla, chocolate, salted caramel, and butterscotch.
On the day of my visit, bright-green lemon-basil-eucalyptus ice cream impressed me the most – made with fresh lemon and basil, and drops of fragrant essential oil. For her strawberry-ginger flavor Danyelle used organic Tomatero Farms strawberries and fresh ginger from Berkeley Bowl, which she juiced in the shop. Goat’s milk with hazelnuts and Mexican mesquite honey were my other favorites, but wait, what about that pink peppercorn, or coconut sorbet? Loved those, too!
My "cereal bowl" sundae was comprised of vanilla bean and strawberry-ginger ice cream and topped with puffed whole grain cereal, lime milk jam, and crispy marengue Os, and it was as scrumptious as no other cereal could ever be.
Besides gourmet ice cream and ice cream-based treats, the shop serves Flying Goat coffees and freshly-baked (usually twice daily) cookies.
In the chocolate department, there is also the embarrassment of riches – various caramels in delicate chocolate shells, painted gold, red, and dark green; chocolate bark made with different nuts, and hot chocolate and marshmallows.    
The Chocolatier Blue Parlor is located at 1809 Fourth Street
, Berkeley, California. Open daily from 11:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. Call 510-665-9500 or visit www.chocolatierblue.com.

It’s Not Your Grandma’s TV Dinner at FIVE Restaurant in Berkeley

By Emma Krasov, photography by Alex KrasovFIVE is a white-tablecloth restaurant, and consuming a quick one-plate lunch here, while sitting in a posh dining room lined with potted palms and mirrors under a crystal chandelier might sound slightly surreal, but after all, this Modern American Bistro & Bar is located in Berkeley, California, where stranger things have happened.
A new concept at FIVE is a weekly changing lunch plate inspired by seasonal farm fresh produce. Five mini-courses on the plate include salad, entrée, sauce, bread, and dessert. Served fast and all at once, these quick meals allow hurried professionals to have their lunch out and eat it, too, not taking any extra time from the working hours.  
The plate, upon which the five courses are served, is rather a rectangular tray with partitions for each course, so it resembles a TV dinner from the now nostalgically regarded time period of Mad Men.   
Another nod to the great epoch is expressed in the name FIVE & Dine, which rhymes with the historical brand of Five and Dime convenience stores.
The ingredients for this lunchtime piece of the 1950s Americana come from the always abundant and overflowing with locally-grown fruit and vegetables Berkeley farmer’s market.  
According to the Executive Chef Banks White, he shops at the market every Saturday, and comes up with the lunch menu based on his weekly purchases.
On the day I lunched, the FIVE & Dine tray contained corn and black bean salad; cubed pork with salsa verde over white rice; tortillas; roasted tomato salsa, and cinnamon churros. 
FIVE & Dine lunch is usually accompanied by a glass of lemonade or iced tea, and served at a set price of $15. 
The restaurant occupies the first floor of the Hotel Shattuck Plaza – recently redesigned in a bold eclectic style – and is decorated in a dramatic black, white and blood-red color scheme.
It has full bar, high ceiling with the said crystal chandelier, intriguing décor, large windows overlooking downtown Berkeley, and is a place where the ambience alone is worth the price of lunch.      
To make sure you hit the weekly assortment to your liking, check out the FIVE Facebook page every Monday morning for an update on the FIVE & Dine lunch.
FIVE is located at 2086 Allston Way, Berkeley. Open daily. For more information call 510-225-6055 or http://www.five-berkeley.com/, ttp://www.hotelshattuckplaza.com/

Friday, May 25, 2012

Chilling “Elena” From the Depths of the Mysterious Russian Soul Comes to Bay Area Screens

By Emma Krasov

Elena, a new film by Andrey Zvyagintsev, who co-wrote the script with Oleg Negin, starts with a view of a Moscow apartment window, gradually colored by the light of dawn. The shot is so subtle that for a minute it looks like a still – until a crow on a bench next to the window slightly moves its head.
Subtlety permeates the action throughout the film, and makes the horror lurking in the masterfully-twisted plot only more jarring.
The main character, Elena (Nadezhda Markina) is a kindly Russian woman – round-faced, corpulent, solid; dressed modestly according to her grandmotherly age.
The kind of woman you’d ask for directions on the street, or for help should you suffer a sudden heart attack. Her non-threatening appearance immediately puts you at ease.
We learn that Elena, indeed, is a skilled nurse, now comfortably retired and recently married to her well-off former patient, Vladimir (Andrey Smirnov).
The couple lives an idyll in a centrally located spacious and beautifully decorated apartment. Each spouse has a daily routine, a set of not too burdensome responsibilities, and – a grown child from a previous marriage.
From what we gather, Vladimir’s daughter, Katerina (Elena Lyadova) leads a life of a spoiled brat and don’t even bother to call her dad until he gets into a hospital, and Elena begs the prodigal daughter to be kind to her father and show him some love. Unexpectedly, the bitter, sarcastic love is there – and that seems to be a problem…
Elena’s son, Sergey (Alexey Rozin) is very much in-touch with his mother. So much so that living in a shabby housing project on the outskirts of Moscow, and obviously jobless, he relies on her pension money to support his wife, Tatyana (Evgenia Konushkina), his teenage son, Sasha (Igor Ogurtsov) and a new baby.
Elena is a good wife, expectedly subservient to her rich husband, and a very good mother and grandmother. All her actions are motivated by motherly love (which at the end makes you question the morality of it – in the universal sense).
At the end, Elena the movie brings the anti-theses to Dostoevsky’s Crime and Punishment character, which killed to find out “whether I was a louse like everybody else or a man.” In the film, lice don’t even question it – they just move in. The well-executed multiple award-winning film pointedly conveys the idea that in the modern-day struggle for survival it is not important any more to be a man.
Elena opens June 8 at Landmark in San Francisco, Shattuck in Berkeley, and Camera3 in San Jose. A Zeitgeist Film Release. More information: www.zeitgeistfilms.com

It’s a Whole New District in Oakland

By Emma Krasov, photography by Yuri Krasov
Disguised as a casual “seat yourself” bar, the new District restaurant in the quiet Old Oakland is anything but your neighborhood watering hole. It does not take reservations and does not have a host station, but the moment you land on a bar stool by a reclaimed wood table, or on a plush sofa in the lounge, prepare to be amazed.
It’s not every day that you get a glass of aromatic 1989 Dr. Heyden Riesling from Rheinhessen, Germany, to compliment your shrimp escabeche bruschetta and ahi tartar with Peruvian chili, cucumber, and Meyer lemon dressing.
And it’s not even every other day that an Italian movie star look-alike (a.k.a. Caterina Mirabelli, wine and spirits director) pairs your charcuterie plate with Angel’s Envy port-finished bourbon.
As I said – not your neighborhood joint!
Classy, elegant, and obviously understated, District is a thing of beauty, waiting to be discovered and frequented by the true connoisseurs.   
Located in a historic building with high ceiling, oversized windows, and exposed brick walls, the dining room is spread around the horseshoe bar which opens to the building’s original doorway header from 1878, now serving as a frame for a wine closet.
Flat TV screens showing vintage movies and a display of local artists’ works add to the atmosphere of sophistication.
Chef Bob Cina puts up and extensive menu of Italian-inspired small plates with some very creative twists on time-honored classics.
He takes escargot out of its shell and off the traditional indented dish. Lightly battered and crispy, delicate snails are now enhanced with bright-green garlic-lemon-parsley cream, and served with earthy grilled ham and mushroom salad. 
Seared sea scallops are garnished with ginger-sour orange sauce and candied jalapenos – all preserved and pickled in-house.
Spinach and fontina arancini come with smoked tomato sauce, while made-from-scratch bratwurst contains veal and foie gras, and tastes decidedly European.  
Chef Bob’s charcuterie platter is not only abundant, but probably the most creative in the Bay Area – with all house-made pork and duck rillettes, truffled chicken liver mousse, smoked duck breast, various cured meats, and even beef jerky. 
Wine director Caterina pairs it with a rare bottle of big red Monje Hollera from Canary Islands – the only place that produces this incredible Listan Negro.
Adamant about her “no added sugar, no coloring, no preservatives” bar policy, she spends several months a year traveling to wineries all over the world, trying their product, buying, or asking to age wine for her, and choosing the most interesting bottles for her exquisite wine list. 
If you are looking for a wonderfully relaxing, conversation-friendly place where food and wine pairing develops into art, where it’s easy to impress your significant other, and where you most definitely will find plenty to write home about, come to the new District in Oakland, eat, drink, and be merry.
District is located at 827 Washington Street, Oakland. The restaurant is open Monday through Friday from 4:00 p.m. to close, and on Saturday beginning at 5:00 p.m. (closing times range from midnight to 2:00 a.m.). The daily happy hour from 4:00 to 6:00 p.m. (5:00 to 7:00 p.m. on Saturdays) features $1.00 oysters. Reservations are recommended for parties of eight or more. Email: events@districtoak.com or call (510) 272 9110. For more information, visit www.districtoak.com.

Thursday, May 24, 2012

Celebrating Revival Bar

By Emma Krasov, photography by Yuri Krasov
Revival Bar & Kitchen in downtown Berkeley boasts the best possible location –smack in the middle of the city’s theatre district – but it’s not just your regular joint for a quick pre-show bite. In fact, the food is so good here I can easily travel to Berkeley for the many enticing dishes I wasn’t able to try on my initial visit. 
Conceived and implemented by the chef/owner Amy Murray, the restaurant’s menu features an array of delectable choices of seasonal greens and locally sourced seafood and meats.
In-house charcuterie is prepared by the restaurant’s chef de cuisine and Master Butcher Travis McConnell from a “whole animal” butchery program.
My favorite roasted California octopus flatbread is made with large-size fully grown octopi that get into Dungeness crab traps during the crab season. Instead of going to waste, the by-catch is utilized by the kitchen in the delicious topping mix of anchovy, garlic and oregano pesto, squid ink aioli, and pickled peppers.  
Revival Bar & Kitchen calls itself “Bar” for a reason. The full bar is stacked with top-shelf liquor, and the cocktails created by the head mixologist Nat Harry range from classic to novel.
The Tomcat is a spin on Negroni – Hayman’s Old Tom gin, Carpano Antica, Cardamaro, and orange bitters, but Crimson Brim is a sparkly novelty with Broker’s gin, Amaro Cio Ciaro, blood orange, and cava.
A wonderful starter to revive all your senses would be Happy Boy Farm black kale salad with sliced kumquats, fried almonds, grilled red onions, and ricotta cheese shavings. Dressed with whole-grain mustard and balsamic vinaigrette, this salad, made of tougher greens, lets you feel, experience, and enjoy your food, not just inhale it as often happens with its over-processed sissy counterparts.   
Revival skilled servers are well-familiar with the menu and very helpful in suggesting the most interesting plates. My trout from McFarland Springs came beautifully crisped and adorned with braised chard, grapefruit gastrique, and toasted walnuts.  
My husband’s Long & Bailey Farm pork chop was perfectly grilled and garnished with artichokes, fingerling potatoes, and a dollop of yummy bourbon butter.
Local and seasonal ingredients permeate the dessert menu as well, like in
Backyard Meyer Lemon and Chocolate Mousse Cake or Orange Blossom Nougat Parfait.
The interior design is turn-of-the-century dark, fitting for the historical building the Revival Bar occupies. High ceilings, arched windows, patinated mirrors, and draperies separating a semi-private dining area from the bar create a hedonistic atmosphere of unhurried enjoyment, especially appreciated by those diners who smartly bypass the theatre crowd and settle here for a while.
Dinner is served Tuesday to Thursday from 5:00 to 10:00 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 5:00 to 10:30 p.m. and on Sunday from 5.00 to 9:30 p.m.
Revival Bar & Kitchen features live music performances every Thursday night from 9:00 to 11:00 p.m., no cover charge. Special functions are a specialty of the house. Fully private dining room seats 45.
The restaurant is located at www.revivalbarandkitchen.com.  
2102 Shattuck Avenue, Berkeley, California
. For more information and reservations, call (510) 549-9950 or visit

Food as Art at Nombe

By Emma Krasov, photography by Yuri Krasov

Small, delectable bites and delicate sake sips make up a satisfying meal at San Francisco’s Nombe, but calling dinner at Nombe merely a meal doesn’t cut it. It’s more like a sophisticated ritual that leads you into the intricate world of Japanese cuisine. 
In reality, the owners Mari Takahashi (executive chef) and Gil Payne (sake sommelier) modeled their establishment after a traditional Tokyo-style izakaya, or sake house, and branded their cuisine as “after-sake” food, which is rather casual, includes Western influences, and is meant for sharing.
However, in Chef Noriyuki Sugie’s expert hands these casual plates, made with seasonal local ingredients, shine like jewels.
Various starters, or otoshi, might include a trio of tiny bowls – one with beet hummus and baguette slices, another with pickled peppers and green beans, and the third with exquisite eggplant puree, nasu, bathed in chive oil.
Other otsumami, or snacks include state-of-the-art foie gras and eel terrine with roasted pineapple and sansho peppers, and hot and spicy tripe with green beans.
Octopus salad is a not-to-be-missed chewy terrine nicely complimented by bitter mizuna leaves, shaved cucumber, and fried chick peas in wonderful soy vinaigrette.
Yakimono (grill) menu lists a number of notable dishes. Bone marrow with miso powder looks like a contemporary art piece, and tastes even better.
Scallops are served over braised cabbage in brown butter ponzu in their own shells, and sea bass with uni butter is grilled to crispy perfection.    
Uni chawan-mushi is a chicken broth and egg custard, served in a soup bowl with a lid, with wrapped-in flavorful slices of shiitake mushrooms and a fresh sea urchin, caught in Mendocino County, on top.
Grilled skewers, or kushiyaki at Nombe include more tastes than anyone would be able to try in one setting, but you can’t go wrong with anything here.
Fish skewers are excellent – salmon topped with ikura, and Hawaiian butterfish.
Vegetable skewers include seasonal produce, like asparagus, shishito peppers, zucchini, eggplant, or shiitake mushrooms, but all are yummy.
Meat skewers with sweetbreads or Snake River Kobe beef are so good it’s hard to share them.
While all the lighter dishes are paired with refreshing Namazake sake, for heartier meats, like oxtail ramen or spicy tantanmen, sommelier Gil recommends earthy Yamahai.
When the time comes for a sweet finale, Nombe’s house-made desserts are as creative and enticing as everything else here.
For ultimate satisfaction get a bowl with a scoop of beer ice-cream with maple bacon (you read that right!) and a scoop of chocolate ice-cream with chestnuts – all made from scratch just for you.
Nombe is located at www.nombesf.com.
2491 Mission Street, San Francisco
. Open six days a week. Lunch is served on Friday from 11:30 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. Brunch, Saturday and Sunday, from 11:30 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. and dinner, Tuesday through Sunday beginning at 6:00 p.m. Closed on Monday. For information and reservations, call 415-681-7150 or visit: