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Monday, May 16, 2011

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by Emma Krasov, photography by Yuri KrasovPerfectly portioned, Sunday prix fixe at Ozumo consists of a four-course dinner with some of the best menu choices thoughtfully pre-selected for spoiled San-Francisco gourmands. Sure enough, the place was packed last Sunday, when my husband and I landed at Ozumo for an early dinner with a bargain Bay Bridge view at sunset.
I’d call our amuse bouche, umami in a bite. Tiny strings of dried seaweed, cubes of root gelatin, and thin slices of shiitake mushrooms were placed in a porcelain spoon – a nice prelude to more lavish things to come.
One plate of our first course was grilled asparagus salad with Asian greens, sweet egg, and wasabi vinaigrette, and the other – an in-house miso-cured salmon with pickled young fern.A glass of clean-tasting crisp house sake, brewed by a top Japanese distiller specifically for sake-conscious Ozumo, was just what the doctor prescribed for taking small fragrant sips between the courses.The sushi course had fresh meaty pieces of hamachi, maguro and salmon nigiri, and a famous Ozumo Akebono roll, named after a sumo wrestler. This fancy roll has pink tuna belly on top of crunchy asparagus and fatty avocado, with an upper layer of pickled daikon and popping black tobiko.
Our main courses were Burikama and Tontoro.First – pan-roasted hamachi collar with marinated cucumber salad and daikon ponzu dipping sauce. I had to restrain myself not to eat this piece of fish with my bare hands, it was so good. So crispy on the outside, so tender and moist inside! The second – braised kurobuta pork belly with cress salad and soft pouched egg on top was a symphony of delicate tastes.
Finally, the dessert plates looked rather healthy, with pliable pineapple slices stuffed with yuzu curd and topped with citrus salad on one, and flourless chocolate cake with green tea ice cream and mochi on another.Even if we had to consume some sugary calories, they were not excessive and just rounded up the stellar experience. Sunday prix-fixe menu changes every week, but is sure to please no matter what’s offered – it’s Ozumo after all, so you are always in good hands here.Ozumo Restaurant is located at 161 Steuart Street, San Francisco. Open for dinner nightly and for lunch Monday through Friday. Call for reservations 415-882-1333, or visit http://www.ozumo.com/.

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