Feast For All Senses Awaits In Applewood Inn

Driving up Russian River valley, tasting Moscato Frizzante at Korbel, and wandering the rusty dusty trails of Armstrong Redwoods were all in a day’s walk, but no Wine Country experience would be complete without staying overnight in one of its legendary bed and breakfasts… While entering the grounds of Applewood Inn, with its foursome of apple-blossom-painted houses around a toy courtyard, I knew I was in a special place, far removed from the troubles of the world. The property looked like a fairy-tale town—compact and self-contained, with its own fruit orchard, vegetable garden, herb flowerbeds and rosebushes, surrounded by serene redwoods under the vast blue sky of a gentle Sonoma autumn. A large bear-faced dog warned me not to come close to the open swimming pool, but then rolled over and begged to play. After walking among the fig trees and fragrant roses in their last passionate bloom, and watching full moon bathing in the pool, I felt like asking for a political asylum here. And that was even before we settled into our airy room with a luxurious bed and a Jacuzzi with a view, and sat to dinner at the famous Applewood restaurant. Darryl Notter and Jim Caron bought the property back in 1985, when it just turned from a 1922 family home into a contemporary B&B. Both owners left San Francisco behind in order to live and work on premises, and it becomes immediately obvious for any visitor that to run this kind of business with this level of success requires a wholehearted investment of self, and something else—that thing called love… In the years following their purchase, Notter and Caron added the Piccola Casa and the Gate House to the old Belden [the original owner’s name] building, and a French barn-style restaurant to sit up to 75 for fine dining and all kinds of receptions. The owners, who know their food and wine, made it a point to hire only exceptionally talented young chefs. We were lucky to indulge in a feast created by Bruce Frieseke—a philosopher chef, who takes an existential approach to each individual ingredient, bringing out “its inherent essence in a way that harmonizes with a dish as a whole.” Jokes aside, Frieseke must be one of the best-educated chefs around, with studies in philosophy, math, and French language, literature and history under his belt. He used to work with Loretta Keller at Bizou, and as an executive chef of The French Garden and Manzanita Restaurant before taking the lead at Applewood. Frieseke’s Parisian pastry chef’s two-year experience allows him to come up with creative desserts, undeniably and exquisitely harmonized with a dinner menu as a whole… As I said before, we were very lucky to have Chef’s Tasting Menu, perfectly balanced and nuanced to the level of poetry. That one would be hard to top… The restaurant supplements great food with an array of carefully selected wines, mostly from highly esteemed local winemakers, many from Russian River area. After dinner, we walked a little in a moonlit garden, and our sleep in a comfy Gate House room was undisturbed in the stillness of the night. In the morning, it was time to drive back to the world and to work, but not before we were treated to a caramelized grapefruit and Belgian waffle breakfast with fresh strawberries, bananas, and bacon, and a cup of Red Rooster’s French Roast to start the day right. Goodbye, Applewood, we shall return! To reserve Applewood Inn at 13555 Highway 116, Guerneville, CA, 95446, call 707-869-9093 or visit http://www.applewoodinn.com/. To learn about special events, packages, and upcoming celebrations, see also http://www.russianriverinns.com/. Photography by Yuri Krasov. 1. Applewood courtyard, Belden House. 2. Co-owner Jim Caron with chef Bruce Frieseke. 3. That's how the chef's menu starts. 4. Swimming pool with a spa for two. 5. Jacuzzi with a view.