Fish & Farm Spells Fine & Fresh

Both fish and farm are represented in the artwork on the walls, but otherwise the place looks fitting for Mark Twain Hotel, where it is located. A cozy darkened dining room that sits 40, brown leather booths and sleek furniture hint at a 1800s elegant clubby atmosphere and after dinner drinks, of which the menu has no shortage. But let’s start with the First Things—that’s how appetizers are called here. On the night we dined, the oxtail soup with red beets, sour cream, and grated horseradish was light yet briny, and burgundy colored—a great take on the famous Ukrainian borsch, rather familiar to some of us since childhood. In a conversation, chef Jacob Des Voignes admitted that he likes to visit Russian specialty stores on Geary, sometimes coming out with ten loaves of dark rye bread. Bravo, chef, your adventurous spirit, open mind, and good taste serve your diners just right! An oft-changing menu reflects these important qualities in the 28-year-old master: every dish comes with imaginative sides, like grilled Monterey Bay sardines with almonds, golden raisins, watercress, and blood orange. Red beans, kale, Cara-Cara oranges and tender baby turnips accompany an entrée of slow roasted salmon—medium-rare, flavorful, with the jewel-like translucent flesh. (A side note for those who insist on sending it back for well doneness: it’s a delicacy, honey. Just open your mind and try it. You won’t ever get back to that cardboard grilled opaque mess again). From the fish to the farm: roast leg of lamb, young and fresh, comes over a wonderfully crispy square of polenta, surrounded by black trumpet mushrooms, rapini, and olive tapenade—a memorable combination of tastes and textures. The establishment, owned by John Duggan, Elena Duggan, and Frank Klein, supports local farmers and fishermen, and most organic sustainable ingredients for chef Jacob’s knock out dinners come from within a 100-mile radius. A roof garden, tended by the chef, supplements tomatoes, herbs, and other plant foods. An enticing selection of creative desserts, cheeses, and libations (ever heard of dessert beer?) rounds up the feast. Fish & Farm is located at 339 Taylor St., San Francisco. Call for reservations 415-474-3474 or visit www.fishandfarmsf.com. Photography by Yuri Krasov