Chef Chevalier Respects Gifts of Nature As Any Gallant Knight Would

By Emma Krasov, photography by Yuri Krasov
Chevalier means knight, gallant nobleman, and Philippe Chevalier, chef/owner of the Chevalier Restaurant in Lafayette couldn’t have asked for a more glorious surname.
Even before I heard him explaining how he carefully selects his suppliers and puts enormous emphasis on quality ingredients, I knew that gallant attitude toward food was taken seriously in his domain.
While the chef is rethinking the menu at the turn of seasons, switching to produce-reach spring-summer cuisine, some of his meatier masterpieces never go out of style.
On a recent visit, an amuse bouche of Térrine du Chef duck liver house-made pâté was served on a toasted baguette slice – with its silky texture and unmistakably “ducky” flavor underlined by a delicate crispy bite of the toast.
To create classic French delicacies he used to enjoy and learned how to prepare in childhood in his native Vendee in the Pays-de-la-Loire region on the Western coast of France, Chef Philippe selects fresh-never-frozen ingredients from local farmers.
He buys a whole duck from Grimaud Farms in Stockton to use liver for a pate, breast for Canette a l’Orange, and legs and fat for a succulent confit that endures 6-hour cooking to reach perfection. Frog legs come fresh from Florida (not frozen from China, as the chef quipped).
Le Moules Marinieres are plump and flavorful in freshly-made shallots, garlic, parsley, white wine, and crème fraiche sauce.
Duo de Foie Gras main ingredient comes from France, therefore the fat content is lower and the consistency is rather substantial.
Le Cassoulet du Chef is a real showstopper. Giant amarago beans in rich satisfying sauce surround a duck confit, garlic sausage, pork belly and house made duck and foie gras sausage – every ingredient in its own right, and yet in harmony with others.
Same goes for a modest side dish of ratatouille with its extreme freshness of bell peppers, zucchini, and eggplant tiny chunks all coming together in a delicious forkful.
Spring season means not only more of those crispy bright vegetables on diners’ tables, but also more tables served outside, in a cozy little garden, illuminated at night and protected by sun umbrellas during the day. Yet another reason to come to Chevalier and get a fix of old-fashioned joie de vivre.
Opened on July 9, 2008 Chevalier approaches its second anniversary with an impressive array of awards and top10s from various restaurant authorities. On a Tuesday night, the place was packed with lucky Lafayette residents who didn’t have to make a long trip to enjoy the classics from the Atlantic coast of France.
Chevalier Restaurant, designed by Christophe Boucher sits 35 people, and the heated outdoor garden sits 47. On some Wednesday nights in summer, live French jazz plays there to round up the experience. The full bar serves French and California wines and signature cocktails.
Chevalier Restaurant is located at 960 Moraga Road near Mt. Diablo Boulevard in Lafayette. Open for dinner Tuesday, Wednesday and Sunday from 5:00 PM to 9:30 PM and Thursday through Saturday from 5:00 PM to 10:00 PM. Lunch on Friday from 11:00 AM to 2:30 PM. Free parking. Call for more info and reservations 925-385-0793 or visit ChevalierRestaurant.com.