Nob Hill Grille is Comfortably Elegant

While Francophile and Italianophile gourmands regard American food as “comfy” (ever so slightly wrinkling their noses) one does not have to walk around in sweat pants to feel comfortable. Personally, I feel so much more comfy in a little black dress and pearls... As a living and breathing organism, American cuisine at its best is still evolving, encompassing the most notable elements from the cuisines of the world. Yesterday, I had a chance to indulge in some comfortable food of Nob Hill Grille, owned and operated by Rich Paez and Fabio Stefani, and to marvel at its unforced elegance. Located at the “foothill” of the (s)Nob Hill, the 40-seat two-level place emits an unpretentious feel of a neighborhood hangout, yet on a cleaner side, with while tablecloths and linen napkins on dark mahogany tables. Red glass tulip-shaped light fixtures over the bar, recorded Spanish guitar music, and b/w art photography by Robert Batzloff on the walls add those “little black dress” touches. A string of pearls, however, comes with the menu. Executive Chef Heli Samaniego has a talent to bring together unlikely combinations of ingredients that, bound with a creative sauce, suddenly shine in unexpected synergy. Summer salad made of grilled peaches, mache lettuce, warm brioche croutons and watermelon melts in your mouth, enhanced with tangy blue cheese and Dijon vinaigrette. A marriage of tastes, no, a match made in heaven comes on a plate of house-made burrata with fat slices of apoplectic heirloom tomatoes and baby basil sprouts, dressed with aged balsamic. Soft fresh mozzarella, oozing cream into fleshy noble tomato chunks, mixed with sweetly-mild vinegar and spiked with distinct micro greens, creates fireworks of flavor. Some real fire is packed in the house trademark baby back ribs, fall-off-the-bone tender, awashed in a spicy bourbon chipotle sauce. Homemade mac-n-cheese with white cheddar and béchamel sauce, and sautéed chard accompany the ribs – a homey combination, yet never homely. The owners acquired the 19-year-old establishment two years ago, and turned it from a breakfast only place into an all-meals restaurant, whose notorious weekend brunch makes its many fans patiently wait in line outside the door for airy omelets, breakfast sliders, and vanilla brioche French toast. Good taste prevails everywhere; some gems on the wine list are Ceago 2007 Sauvignon Blanc from Clear Lake – crisp, refreshing, aromatic with tropical fruit, and nuanced Carmel Road Pinot Noir from Monterey. A never to be missed dessert consists of house-made delicate crepes, filled with hand-whipped cream and topped with roasted peaches. The owners make a special emphasis on locally grown organic and sustainable produce and meat. They recently introduced a new menu to incorporate seasonal summer ingredients, so getting here one of these days or sooner would be a good idea. Nob Hill Grille is located at 969 Hyde Street at Pine in San Francisco. Open 7 day a week, 8:30 to 3 p.m. and 5 to 10 p.m. Call for reservations 415-474-5985, or visit www.nobhillgrille.com Photography by Yuri Krasov. 1. Rich Paez. 2. Burrata and Heirlooms. 3. Crepes. 4. Downstairs room.