There is always sunny in the “playground of movie stars,” plus it boasts a cluster of mid-century modern architectural gems, and a gay mayor – who would ask for anything more? The town’s 48 K population doubles in season, which here, in the blessed blossoming dessert means winter – October through April. That is not to ignore its popularity when May Gray or June Gloom hits the coastal cities of LA and San Diego. In July and August Palm Springs locals – mostly transplants from colder climes – have their oasis to themselves.
They know how to escape a 108-degree scorcher by buying a season pass to the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway and heading up over the cliffs of Chino Canyon for the San Jacinto Mountain Station at 8,516 ft, where the heat drops to the pleasant levels of celestial coolness. The Tramway’s challenging construction continued in fits and starts for decades, and called for an extensive use of helicopters in erecting the supporting towers. No wonder it was designated a historical civil engineering landmark. In the largest in the world Tramway rotating cabin the floor makes a couple of circles per trip for a 360 view. The riders experience an equivalent of a road trip from the Sonora Desert in Mexico to the Transitional Zone in Alaska, encountering the same flora and fauna changing dramatically in a less than 10 minutes ride. In winter, cross-country skiing and snowshoeing on the mountain top can be naturally combined with sun-tanning. Many film and TV show episodes were shot at the Tramway, from Mission Impossible to Beverly Hills 90210. Among the stars who took a ride at one time or another were Ronald Reagan and Princess Grace with family (pstramway.com).
The magic of Palm Springs’ “starry nights” started with early Hollywood contracts that wouldn’t allow actors to venture farther than 200 miles from LA. A sun-drenched desert village with a serene mountainous backdrop in 115 miles seemed like an ideal getaway, and that’s how a new neighborhood known as Movie Colony was formed. Gloria Swanson, Cary Grant, Kirk Douglas, Tony Curtis and Janet Leigh were buying homes here, relaxing with family, and entertaining friends. Movie Colony Hotel, one of the first modern properties, was designed by Albert Frey in 1935, before the Swiss-born architect embarked on his life-long mission of shaping the face of the desert which made him famous. Today, the hotel is an intimate hideaway with a gorgeous mountain view, cool authentic feel, 16 custom-furnished rooms with private terraces, and a nightly cocktail reception by the pool or a glass-ball-filled fire pit (moviecolonyhotel.com).
The best way to indulge in the wealth of knowledge on desert modern architecture and to become and instant expert on the subject is to book a lecture ride with Robert Imber of Palm Springs Modern Tours (psmoderntours@aol.com). Imber, the company founder and a tour guide extraordinaire, shares some amazing facts about brave new architects and their clients on his daily excursions for small groups. You’ll learn that John Lautner, a pioneer of “real architecture,” became enamored with concrete; that John Porter Clark, the Palm Springs resident architect, strived to align the design of houses with the design of automobiles; and that builders/developers George and Robert Alexander built their legacy with 2500 single-family homes designed by Bill Krisel, who smartly turned the same square floor plan in different directions and applied various finishes to create some astonishing diversity within the same style.
Another pair of legendary architects, Donald Wexler and Richard Harrison, designed the entrance canopy and bathhouse of the Palm Springs Spa (now the Spa Resort Casino) – a landmark in its own right (sparesortcasino.com). The hot springs, after which the town was named, are found inside the facility, percolating directly into luxurious blue-tiled bathtubs. “Taking of the Waters” is a local trademark spa treatment that includes also steam, sauna, and eucalyptus inhalations.
To learn more about the history of the springs and the indigenous people who first discovered them – Agua Caliente band of Cahuilla – take a walking tour of Indian Canyons. Rocky Toyama, tribal ranger director, leads interpretive group tours along the canyons, from a one-mile Andreas Canyon loop to lengthy discovery hikes. Artifacts found here date back two-there thousand years, providing a glimpse into the life of ancient hunters-gatherers. Honey mesquite tree fruit and acorns were among the daily foods, as well as tiny berries that taste like dates and grow on Washingtonia filifera palms native to the area. Imbedded in the flat surface of surrounding granite rocks, Cahuilla grinding mortars can still be seen today. This tribal land is a protected wilderness area, where camping, smoking or fires are not allowed, and every effort is made to protect the existing environment and bring animal populations back from near extinction.
For a relatively tiny town in the desert, Palm Springs has a surprisingly big amount of annual events and educational and entertaining activities. An early December Walking Tour of the Inns (walkingtouroftheinns.com) becomes more popular every year. It starts at the Palm Springs Art Museum, which holds a rich collection of modern art and features an array of free programs, film screenings, live performances, and artists’ demonstrations (PSMusem.org).
This year, for the 14th annual walk, horse-and-carriage rides (palmspringscarriages.com) were offered to supplement the festive experience. Beautifully decorated for the holiday season, dozens of Palm Springs unique inns – each lovingly furnished with period artifacts and adorned with antiques and modern artwork – opened their doors, patios, and poolsides for hundreds of locals and tourists, greeted with steamy cups of apple cider and hot chocolate.
For more sustainable fair, the city has no shortage of good restaurants, cafes, and cozy coffee shops.
For breakfast, a popular choice is Pinocchio in the Dessert (pinocchiops.com), serving humongous omelets, plate-size pancakes with all the trimmings, and generous mimosas (you can have it sans orange juice, of course).
Lunch is always good at Jake’s Ready to Eat (jakesreadytoeat.com) with delightfully fresh salads and lick-your-fingers sandwiches.
For dinner, there are plenty of good choices, from casual to upscale. Copley’s Restaurant (copleysrestaurant.com) chef-owner, Andrew Manion Copley makes some amazing Hawaiian ahi tacos (a rather unexpected treat in the dessert, no?); sweet and tangy roasted pumpkin ravioli (this reporter would gladly eat those for appetizer, main course, and dessert); and elaborate meat courses with Niman Ranch pork and beef, besides other top selections on the menu. Even ice cream is hand-made by the chef.
Add to it a bottle of 2008 Angeline Pinot Noir from Russian River, and a ghost of Cary Grant might very well appear right in front of your eyes. There is a good reason for that – Copley’s is located in Cary Grant’s former guest house, and still has the original floor plan and the hardwood floor itself. (A cloth napkin turned into a ghost all on its own after a brief contact with a tea light candle on the table).
Zini Café Med, a new addition to the well-loved Zin American Bistro (zinamericanbistro.com), serves great Italian and other Mediterranean cuisine at its best. Owner Mindy Reed faithfully follows delectable recipes created by Chef Nicolas Klontz (her late partner) preserving his legacy and pleasing customers with every carefully-executed plate. Pappardelle with braised rabbit and smoked paprika, and couscous with sweet-sour lamb are just a couple of the bursting with flavor dishes that would be hard to forget. Reed’s staff is well-versed in wines, and the wine list has great names from all over the world. Zolo cabernet sauvignon from Argentina was served with our group’s dinner to everybody’s acclaim.
Staying in Palm Springs even for a very brief vacation, it’s easy to forget the harsh realities of the everyday and indulge in the delights of its abundantly sunny nature and culture. Colony Palms Hotel (colonypalmshotel.com), a newly renovated historical property in the Spanish Colonial style, boasts a dense garden of orange trees and azaleas on its grounds, 56 luxurious guest rooms and suites, a decadent poolside terrace with a bar, an upscale Purple Palm Restaurant, and a Moroccan Spa. The property is tastefully decorated with antique furniture, oriental rugs, and contemporary B/W photography in a retro style – everything to sooth the senses and enhance the pleasure of just being here (VisitPalmSprings.com).
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