Goat Night is Heavenly at Left Bank Brasserie Larkspur

By Emma Krasov, photography by Yuri Krasov
Put together, the last day of summer and “Goat Night: A Head to Tail Event” might evoke anything from witchcraft to fraternity/sorority competition. Since the event was happening on August 31 at the Left Bank restaurant in Larkspur, it spiked this reporter’s curiosity as a definite promise of culinary adventure. Of course, many cardboard chicken breast-fed Americans associate goat meat with a famous Seinfeld episode, in which a hostess serves tough mutton chunks making her guests trying to discreetly discard them into family heirloom napkins. A completely different scene was unfolding on Tuesday night in the filled to capacity dining room and outdoor area of the original Left Bank Brasserie, located in the historic Blue Rock Inn, built in 1895. Upon entering, besides the regular menu, every guest received a leaflet, stating that on this day only, Executive Chef Sean Canavan would feature an all natural grass-fed goat from Rossotti Ranch in Petaluma. Following a poignant statement describing the chef’s learnt appreciation for the whole beast; its different cuts were listed in various preparations best suitable for each chunk of this lean gamey meat. By the time we came to dine, some cuts were understandably sold out, but we were still treated to an entire goat feast, fragrant and memorable like no other. Goat consommé, finished by skimming all the fat off the surface of the thick coagulating broth, was served in espresso cups – dark-brown, savory, and absolutely addictive. Goat loin was pink and tender, au jus, and more delicate than the most succulent lamb. Goat navarin was prepared in a traditional French manner with turnips, carrots, fava beans, Nicoise olives, and served in a cast iron mini cocotte, and with yogurt-parsley sauce on a side. There were also orange-scented meat balls on ratatouille, and thin browned to perfection sausages upon buttered couscous.
Accompanied by delicious signature cocktails, Amereux with Grey Goose Citron, ginger ale, and lemon, and Cucumber Collins with mint, this amazing dinner came across as a testament to Chef Canavan’s outstanding skill and creativity. Perhaps, it’ll take another series of attempts on the chef’s part to widen his patrons’ culinary horizons, and some more time before the American public in general will come to appreciate the diversity of unusual yet enticing foods known to other cultures, and truly enjoy it. Thankfully, Left Bank’s Goat Night became a giant step in the right direction. Left Bank Brasserie in Larkspur is located at 507 Magnolia Avenue at Ward Street. For reservations, call (415) 927-3331 or visit www.leftbank.com.