By Emma Krasov, photography by Yuri Krasov
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Recently implemented Sunday brunch at Spenger’s Fresh Fish Grotto is now the talk of Berkeley.
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Fresh-from-the-boat Pacific oysters never looked as good as they do here, under a full-sale tall ship model mounted on crates above the brunch buffet.
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The ambience is nautical, whimsical, eclectic, and thoroughly enticing. The food is bountiful and fresh, and neatly arranged in specialty stations that include: seafood – salmon, crab, shrimp, and bivalves; meat – prime rib and ham; specials – eggs Benedict, grilled fish and chicken, bacon and sausage, rice and potatoes; omelets made to order – with artichoke hearts, mushrooms, tomatoes, and other gourmet ingredients; freshly baked breads and salads; seasonal fruit and vegetables; bananas foster and waffles; pastries and other desserts.
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Mimosas and champagne come in bottomless glasses and coffee cups are being duly refilled.
Spenger’s Fresh Fish Grotto is a very special place, with plenty of character and rich history that goes back for more than a century. Founded by a fisherman, Johan Spenger, who brought his daily catch to the kitchen straight from the San Francisco Bay, it was owned and operated for decades by the Spenger family.
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In its heyday, Spenger’s was considered the largest seafood restaurant in the world, and continues to stand out today as a classic seafood place committed to local sourcing and quality.
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To me, the most striking feature of this unique restaurant is the Star of Denmark 34-carat canary diamond, modestly displayed in a sort of a compass stand, in the entryway to the dining hall. A commemorative plaque reads, “…This diamond was set in a ring given by the Princess of Denmark to Queen Kapiolani of Hawaii when she attended Queen Victoria’s jubilee in 1887…”
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Of course, you come here for food, not diamonds, but I’d return to Spenger’s just to look at this marvel…
Sunday brunch at Spenger’s Fresh Fish Grotto is served from 10:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. at 1919 Fourth Street in Berkeley. Call for reservations (510) 845-7771, or visit
www.spengers.com.
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