Going Basque with Chef Hirigoyen and Loving It, or Ten Years of Piperade

By Emma Krasov, photography by Emma Krasov

A series of serendipitous events preceded my participation in the 10^th Anniversary luncheon at Piperade – chef/owner Gerald Hirigoyen’s outstanding Basque restaurant in San Francisco.

Back in the 1990s, when we still lived in Chicago, on our first visit to the City by the Bay my dear husband took me to the “best French restaurant in town” recommended by a knowledgeable friend – and that was Fringale. I still remember the creamiest sauterne-pouched foie gras and the tender pan-fried skate wing served on a bed of piperade – tomato, bell pepper, and onion sauce.

Inspired, I bought a book, “Bistro, The Best of Casual French Cooking” written by the then Fringale chef, Gerald Hirigoyen. 

With various degrees of success I attempted to recreate at home the majority of Bistro book recipes from relatively easy onion pie to complex cassoulet with meticulously fat-preserved duck confit.

Sautéed figs with roasted almonds and crème mousseline became my top dessert for entertaining, and whenever my teenage daughter wanted to get on my good side, she would present me with a lemon tart from the book.

Ten years ago, after we have just moved to San Francisco, my husband offered to take our family to Fringale for my birthday, to which I gladly agreed.  On our way to the restaurant, I noticed that we were going in the wrong direction – along Embarcadero instead of heading to the inner SoMa location. By the entrance to a new chic eatery my daughter shouted, “Surprise!” and disclosed the reason for the change of venue – my favorite chef was now the owner of a new restaurant, Piperade, and that’s where they were taking me for a lavish dinner of Basque specialties. We had a feast of seafood, cheeses, and stews. People from the neighboring tables were admiring our food and asking what we’ve ordered.       

At the end of our meal, I pulled out my tattered, Burgundy, mustard, and crème fraiche-stained Bistro book, and asked the Chef to autograph it for me. He wrote on the front page, “To Emma. Bon Appetit. Gerald.”

Now, ten years since its opening, Piperade is still collecting accolades from San Francisco dwellers and visitors alike. To celebrate the occasion, Chef Hirigoyen opened a brand new event space, adjacent to Piperade and named Lauburu after the Basque cross which symbolizes spirit and life.

This 1,000 square foot space, perfect for private dining, corporate banquets, family celebrations and industry/public events, like winemakers dinners, became the scene for the 10th Anniversary Luncheon, for which the Chef prepared a special menu of his acclaimed creations.

An array of appetizers included absolutely decadent calamari “A la Plancha” lightly grilled with fennel, olives, capers, lemon, and coriander; bright-red piquillo peppers stuffed with goat cheese, pistachios, and golden raisins; Chef’s signature terrine of Basque sheep’s milk cheese, ham, and sherry; and a festive plate of seasonal figs with haricots vert and walnuts. Basque wine Txomin Etxaniz, Getariako Txakolina, Gipuzkoa 2009 accompanied the starters.

Chef’s favorite, whole sea bass, prepared with fried garlic vinaigrette, came second, garnished with squash and mushrooms, and complimented by Allende, Viura, Rioja 2008.

Then the most succulent rack of lamb made its appearance with intriguing sides of merguez sausage, roasted fennel, fingerling potatoes and cumin-date relish, paired with Herri Mina, Cabernet Franc, Trouleguy 2007.

An old Basque version of Grenache – Arrels de Clos Pissarra, Garnatxa, Clos Oblidat, Montsant 2006 accompanied a plate of the Pyrenees cheeses.

Finally, a lavish dessert tray presented the signature orange blossom beignets, milk chocolate and hazelnut “Biarritz Rocher” creamy round tarts, and sumptuous gateau Basque with cherry preserve, all perfectly matched with the sweet Clos Uroulat, Jurancon 2009 with subtle residual sugar.

The ambience of Lauburu with reclaimed wood decor, exposed brick, a glass-fronted wall mounted wine display, wood beam ceiling with track lighting, a decorative mirror, and wood panel flooring is simultaneously elegant and bohemian – intimate and inviting. A patio access offers some cityscape views.

Lauburu is located at 1015 Battery Street, San Francisco, and is available for private functions by advance reservation. Piperade, at the same address, is open for lunch Monday through Friday from 11:30 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. and for dinner Monday through Thursday from 5:30 p.m. to 10:00 p.m. and on Friday and Saturday until 10:30 p.m. For more information and reservations call (415) 391-2555 or visit www.piperade.com .