Among the beach towns, sitting pretty on the gorgeous California coast – all groomed and primped for everyone to see, Oxnard is just evolving as a tourist destination. Formerly a sugar capital of the region, known for its three Bs – beans, beets, and babies, it became famous in the 1920s-30s for producing a “painless birth” drug cocktail. Poetically called Twilight Sleep, and admitted at the local hospital, the med, as it appeared later, turned some newborns blue, yet at the time managed to attract the city’s first tourists, mostly of Hollywood persuasion. However, Hollywood Beach, one of the many gems on a seven-mile strip of white sands, dunes, and driftwood, got its name from Rudolph Valentino, the original Latin Lover, who filmed “The Sheik” and later bought a residence here, and from Clark Gable, his neighbor, who also lived here and had a knack for wild parties.
Nowadays, after successfully handling several pesky problems of the more recent past, like gangs, drugs, and graffiti, the city learns to flaunt its abundance of natural attractions and diverse cultural heritage. Be it a weekend getaway or a layover on the way to LA, Oxnard offers rewarding experiences and memorable adventures. In the neat and clean historic downtown, there is an overflowing with fresh produce farmer’s market at Plaza Park, anchored by the original pagoda-style bandstand, opened for the 4th of July celebration a century ago.
Across the street, a sugar-white neo-classic 1907 Carnegie library with Doric columns now hosts a fine art museum with an impressive collection of California modern art. A short walk away, there is a dollhouse collection of real Victorian dwellings dated 1878-1912. They were preserved and relocated from all over the city to the Heritage Square, created in 1991. Early well-to-do farmers’ homes and a wooden church with stunning stained glass windows instantly transport visitors into a bygone era. The church was built by the sugar-producing Oxnard family who gave the town its name. Lovingly restored houses are not just a museum display. La Dolce Vita restaurant in the McGrath house serves classic Italian cuisine, like delectable linguini in a white clam sauce and vegetable ravioli with white wine, fresh tomato and basil. Rancho Ventano Cellars tasting room in the 1902 Scarlett house is a place to try some hand-crafted Tempranillo and other small-lot artisan reds. Elite Theatre Company at the Petit Playhouse seats 50, but stages ambitious shows, like Martin McDonagh’s “Beauty Queen of Leenane, playing now through September 13... If you are lucky, Gary Blum, Manager of Heritage Square, and a descendant of the Petit family might guide you on a tour, sharing some details about the restoration process of his ancestors’ home, now a community “theatre in your lap.” Besides docent guided tours, Heritage Square offers summer outdoor concerts and is favored by the locals for weddings and special events. Learn more at www.visitoxnard.com and www.heritagesquareoxnard.com.
Most historic places are located downtown – the early city proper – 10 blocks by 10 blocks with alphabetical and numerical street names. Sites to be seen include Henry T. Oxnard Historic District with Victorian, Tudor, Craftsman, and Spanish Colonial Revival houses; a Gothic Revival Santa Clara church; Gull Wings Children’s Museum, Downtown Center for the Arts, Ventura County Maritime Museum, Murphy Auto Museum, and an endlessly entertaining Woolworth Museum, located in the original 1950 store that started the national chain. The building is filled with five-and-dime memorabilia and photographs of the retail empire’s hay day. www.downtownoxnard.org.
Channel Islands National Park and Marine Sanctuary is a major not to be missed attraction, accessible by boat. Called the American Galapagos, the rocky isles, never connected to the mainland, house about 150 unique endemic species. The closest to the city harbor, only 11 miles off the coast, Anacapa Island is an uninhabited bare rock that serves as a sanctuary for western gulls. They return here to nest year after year due to the lack of predators. At the time of our trip, thousands of noisy, eerily hitchcockian birds were sitting on their nests everywhere along the narrow trails. Their adorable chicks, covered with leopard-spot camouflaging fluff, were hatching right in front of our eyes. The island’s human history goes back 13 thousand years, marked with “lunch wrappers” – mollusk shells, left by Chumash people who used to camp here on their hunting expeditions. A 1937 light station with a handful of period buildings is the only “site,” surrounded by low-growing resilient island vegetation. From a cliff overlooking a sandy strip of white sand beach one can see basking sea lions, turquoise waters, rich with kelp, and more sea birds, nesting in the crevices of the rock. Sun, wind, salt in the air, and this calming view of the Pacific waters from the Anacapa rugged shore fills a traveler’s soul with rarely achieved calm and content. For more information, go to www.channelislands.noaa.gov and www.islandpackers.com.
To make it a perfect day in Oxnard, a visit to the largest kosher winery on the West Coast, Herzog Wine Cellars, is a must. Learning about the intricacies of kosher winemaking on an entertaining educational tour is only part of the fun. Beautifully designed sparkling clean facilities, plenty of natural light, a bottling plant in a glass cube, art on the walls, and a spacious inviting tasting room set a scene for the stars - coconut and Moroccan spice-rich Sauvignon Blanc from Los Alamos, cherry-ridden Cab from Napa, sweet late harvest Chenin Blanc from Clarksburg, and many many more.
Tierra Sur, an upscale restaurant on premises, serves lunch and dinner with an emphasis on seasonal local produce. Chef Todd Aarons, a 1993 graduate of California Culinary Academy meets an everyday challenge of creating gourmet kosher cuisine with flying colors. Since meat and dairy cannot be used together in the same meal, he employs plenty of creative substitutes for milk and butter, like egg yolks to thicken sauces, buttery olive oil from Spain, and various vegetable purees. His purple carrot soup spiced with lime leaf, ginger and garlic, instead of sour cream comes with coconut milk and mint, followed by a duck leg confit, perfectly paired with rhubarb puree, mustard greens, and fried spring onions. The dairy-free dessert of frozen strawberry custard is a masterpiece of taste and creativity. Reservations are accepted at 805-983-1560. More information at www.herzogwinecellars.com.
A fad tourist industry concept of progressive dining is fully embraced in Oxnard, and moved to the waterfront, where gorgeous sunsets serve as a natural backdrop for a water taxi cruise around the Channel Islands Harbor between the courses. At the newly renovated Marine Emporium Landing, one can enjoy a clam and oyster appetizer at Sea Fresh Restaurant, and an authentic Brazilian main course at Moqueca – both opened less than a year ago. The namesake dish at the latter consists of tender fish cubes marinated with garlic and lime juice and cooked in a clay pot with tomatoes, cilantro, onions and olive oil. Learn more at www.marineemporiumlanding.com.
With so many things to see and do in Oxnard, comfortable lodging is worth consideration, and the indisputable star in hospitality industry is located right on the beach, and truly is an ocean side hotel. Embassy Suites Mandalay Beach Hotel & Resort is like no other property in the chain. Located on a vast Mandalay Beach, in a colonial Spanish-style architectural complex, it is usually booked well in advance by wedding parties, family reunions, and returning families on vacation. 248 suites all have patios of balconies overlooking the ocean, or the pool, or tropical gardens, waterfalls, and lagoons on the grounds. www.mandalaybeach.embassysuites.com.
To complete the lavish stay, Capistrano’s Restaurant on premises serves creamy shrimp, scallop, sea bass, and roasted corn chowder, and a variety of California plates for lunch, dinner, and Sunday brunch. Reservations at 805-984-2500.
Residence Inn by Marriott at River Ridge has 252 suites with full kitchens, free WiFi, complimentary buffet breakfast, two swimming pools and five tennis courts. A comfortable stay here, be it a business trip or a family getaway, is assured by newly-renovated facilities, a variety of modern amenities, 12,000 square feet of meeting space, and special accommodations for pets. Check out www.oxnardresidenceinn.com.
With its Mediterranean climate, access to the ocean, and multiple attractions, Oxnard is a great place to visit any time of year, but it also boasts a long list of seasonal festivals and celebrations guaranteed to fit any taste. Annual California Strawberry Festival (Oxnard is the largest producer of strawberries in the state), Oxnard Salsa Festival, Oxnard Multicultural Festival, International Food and Wine Festival, Celebration of the Whales in winter, Friday nights concerts in summer, and a variety of fairs, shows, and parades are just a few of them. See www.visitoxnard.com for a complete list of events and various sports activities. Photography by Yuri Krasov.
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