Metro Café Finds its Niche

An unassuming street sign over a storefront entrance is a sort of “Sesame” leading to a hidden gem. The new incarnation of a neighborhood dining spot on Divisadero in San Francisco is now Metro Café, opened less than a month ago. Co-owner Roshan KC, met us at the door with a proud smile of a new parent – the place was filled with laughter and livery conversations, refreshingly busy on a week night. Its cozy dining room sparkled under oversized spherical chandeliers made of colored glass with exposed matte light bulbs reflected in the mirrored bar. Colorful and inviting, the set was perfect for the Chef Jacques Rousseau’s refined California-French cuisine. A short yet well-balanced “August” menu presented an array of moderately priced delicacies. We followed our friendly waiter’s suggestion and tried the most popular items, preserved from the “old menu” – mussels with tomato picante and steamed buffalo momo. Both appetizers were excellent, with mussels swimming in a pool of velvety broth with little chunks of peppers (thanks for the spoon!) and tender meat dumplings enhanced by succotash with curry tomato and cilantro sauce. (A little cone of Kennebec shoestring fries is a must no matter what you are having). My main course of free range roasted chicken came with a dollop of California olive tapenade on the top of a golden-brown breast with a wing bone (my favorite) over creamy polenta. My dining companion was hard pressed to share some of his braised baby back ribs with coffee cardamom maple glaze and lentil ragout, and that was too good to share, indeed. Accompanied by La Playa Chardonnay and Cosentino Pinot Noir, the flavors were clean, exotic, and satisfying. Thanks to reasonable portion sizes, we were able to appreciate dessert items – silky chocolate cake with berry coulis and a warm plate of luscious strawberry rhubarb crisp with rhubarb granita on top – melting in your mouth. “We are still trying the new menu,” said KC. “Now adding duck confit with green lentils, and lamb shank. We have a French chef, so we’ll stick with the classics.” A native of France, Chef Rousseau has 20 years of restaurant experience both in Paris and San Francisco under his belt. Striving to become a neighborhood “everyday restaurant” Metro Café seems to be already reaching its goal with high quality creative cuisine at great prices. Besides lunch and dinner, served seven days a week, the restaurant is popular with its weekend brunch, especially in the backyard patio. Surrounded by tall trees, it’s an oasis of calm, and a welcome hideaway behind the Metro Hotel next door. Prosecco and fresh-squeezed grapefruit mimosas, [real] French toast, and eggs Benedict are sure to please. The restaurant sits 38 in the dining room and 25 in the patio. Located at 311 Divisadero St. at Page St. SF. 415-552-0903, www.metrocafe311.com Photography by Yuri Krasov.