Waterbar Bears Much More Substance Than Name Implies

Unlike oxygen bars, raw bars, and wheat grass juice bars of various fads and trends, Waterbar on Embarcadero San Francisco does not limit its bar service to water. Nor is it short of enticing fresh-from-the-sea selections of oysters, shellfish, and all kinds of fish, big and small, local and flown in. Grilled, fried, wood oven roasted, or house-cured, it’s all seasonal, sustainably sourced, and skillfully prepared for a daily changing menu. Take an Australian kingfish sashimi, topped with house made kimchi, cilantro, and Leccino olive oil. A mild taste of the noble fish is not overpowered, but subtly spiced up and “energized” by the condiments. Or take the house cured citrus Gravlox, intensely coral-colored, pliable and shiny, wrapped around jade-green asparagus spears, with baby greens and tiny cubes of red beets on a side. What a great combination of tastes and textures! Or take the best lunch bargain Down-the-Line pre fix which on the day we ate there with a friend included the said Gravlox, Hawaiian ono, prepared medium-rare, and a delicious blood orange creamsicle, all for $24. Not only fish shines at Waterbar. We couldn’t resist trying Emma’s favorite salad, named after the chef’s daughter, and now, unofficially, after this reporter, too. Delicate slices of pink lady apples, radishes, endive, and celery leaves in light creamy dressing were accompanied by the most creative grilled cheese sandwich one could imagine—pungent gouda between the toasted slices of Grace Bakery cranberry and walnut bread. A wine list at Waterbar boasts an impressive array of grape juice from all imaginable coastal countries, and the bar offers its signature “Ultimate Bloody Mary,” with a rasher, two jumbo prawns, cherry tomatoes and a rim of Old Bay seasoning. Add to it the sweeping views if the Bay, the Bridge towering right over the roof, the spacious interior in all hues of blue, with two cylindrical floor to ceiling fish tanks, the glass bubble chandelier over the bar and the al fresco area, and the appeal of this place becomes irresistible. After lunch, we spotted a couple that occupied a table next to us, kissing on a bench by the waterfront right outside the restaurant... Was that just a coincidence, or the spell of Waterbar? The restaurant is the third collaboration between restaurateur and designer Pat Kuleto and executive chef Mark Franz. Kuleto and Franz worked together on Farallon restaurant in SF and Nick’s Cove & Cottages on Tomales Bay. Parke Ulrich is the executive chef and partner at Waterbar. Pastry chef Emily Luchetti and beverage director Steven Izzo round up the creative team. Located at 399 The Embarcadero South (next to the giant bow and arrow sculpture, Cupid’s Span), the restaurant is open daily for lunch and dinner. Weekends at Waterbar begin at 11:30 a.m. and the weekend menu is served until 5 p.m.; regular dinner service begins at 5:30 p.m. For more information, please visit the Waterbar Web site at www.waterbarsf.com. Photography by Emma Krasov.