Baumé in Palo Alto - A Perfect Measure for Haute Cuisine and Select Wine

By Emma Krasov, photography by Yuri Krasov

Baumetini and flat bread
Named after liquid density scales invented by the 18th century pharmacist Antoine Baume, the new Palo Alto restaurant might be as well using its namesake device for the Chef/Owner Bruno Chemel’s inspired and labor-intense preparations. According to his team of well-skilled servers, Michelin-starred Chef works with a precision of a surgeon and a tenacity of an alchemist to turn egg yolks and olive oil into droplets of gold. Chemel’s so called molecular gastronomy includes such culinary wonders as passion fruit pearls (seeds are being removed from their capsules); pineapple sponge, and lavender liquid nitrogen foam, served beside, in-between, or after striped bass, grass-fed filet mignon and foie gras courses. Atlantic blue bass on fennel panna cotta with saffron base and potato chip
Dining here is a remarkable experience – as much gastronomic indulgence as a celebration of good taste and joy de vivre. The Contemporary French, with Californian and Asian influences, Baume cuisine features plenty of seasonal and locally sourced organic ingredients, but it’s the high art of the chef that transforms them into pure poetry. Young and energetic, M. Chemel looks more like a straight A chemistry student than a seasoned master chef, but he carries a long list of educational highlights, remarkable achievements, and praised establishments under his belt. Cheese course. Tete de Moine Duo, shaved and breaded
Most recently the Executive Chef at Chez TJ, a Michelin star restaurant in Mountain View, Chef Chemel used to work at the Michelin two star Jean Pierre Billoux in Digoin, France; was the Executive Chef at the Le Chantilly, New York; spent four years in Japan studying macrobiotic cooking, and then working as the Executive Chef at Ambrosia in Tokyo. In Honolulu, Hawaii, he owned the four star Cliquo. In Dana Point, Southern California he was the Executive Chef of Aqua at The St. Regis Monarch Beach, earning a Four Diamond AAA rating and receiving five stars from the American Academy of Hospitality Sciences. He came to San Francisco in 2004 to open La Suite, and quickly made it to the Best 10 New Restaurants and Bay Area Top 100, as well as a Gourmet Magazine Top 10 Best Restaurants, San Francisco.
Strawberry gelee, strawberry soda, and mini donut
Chocolate truffles and madeira
Baumé Pastry Chef Ryan Shelton provides a sweet finale to Chef Chemel’s masterpieces with his own tiny creations like strawberry gelee in a clear cup with a burnt almond sphere inside and raspberry truffles accompanied by a sip of a 10-year-old garnet-colored Malmsey Madeira. Sommelier Tim Augello and Manager/Wine Buyer Nick Vrignaud round up the amazing dining experience, which would not be complete without the skillful wine pairing, featuring some great wines from California, like Page Mill Merlot 2007 and from France, like Collovray-Terrier Chardonnay from Pouilly-Fuisse 2006. A German Riesling Dr. Loosen 2004, Auslese, served with seared foie gras would be hard to top, but the Baume approach is to buy by the case and change pairings often – to keep repeat customers excited about new choices. Bruno and Christie Chemel
Christie Chemel, who greets guests upon arrival and makes sure all reservations are confirmed, takes care of the private events, and obviously, of the Chef. She participated in the design of the superiorly intimate and cozy dining room (seats 22) along with the designer Shirley Lo.
Small yet airy dining spaces, stone tile floors, luscious drapery in burnt orange, and Zen-inspired artwork from Precious Pieces (New York) have an unusually calming and at the same time invigorating feel. It’s a great place for special occasions and intimate celebrations, as well as for important business dinners.
A couple of Baume hydrometric scales are suspended in a fish tank on a front counter, and after their 10-course three-hour dinner is over, diners like to linger here, obviously reluctant to leave… The restaurant is open for dinner Thursday through Sunday, and for lunch on Monday, Thursday and Friday. Free public parking nearby. The dinner menu is a prix fixe only, with five courses for $78.00, ten for $108.00 and fifteen for $148.00. Wine pairing for an additional $50.00.
Baumé is located at 201 S. California Avenue, at Park Avenue, in Palo Alto. Visit Baumé at baumerestaurant.com. Reservations are required for parties of four or more and can be made via OpenTable.com or by calling (650) 328-8899.