A rather secluded location in the heart of a bustling metropolis, traditional Vietnamese cuisine with just a hint of French influence, and the venue’s stylish adherence to the 1920s Vietnam theme in ambience and décor makes Le Colonial a relaxing choice for busy San Francisco dwellers. It comes as no surprise then that a new weekend brunch with a satisfying a la carte menu is now being served. Executive chef Joe Villanueva changes it often to incorporate fresh seasonal produce. Last Sunday, when my husband and I came for brunch, it looked like there was hardly a better place for a leisurely midday meal. The very building of Le Colonial with its white walls and terracotta tile roof stands apart from its surrounding, as if on a sunlit Saigon street, welcoming passers by into its cool and quiet interior. Passing an oversized antique mirror in a heavy frame, potted tropical plants, and vintage B&W photographs on the walls we ascended the tiled staircase to the second-level terrace, enlivened with lush ivy, and covered with a glass roof decorated with fleur-de-lis along its ridge.
The restaurant’s various rooms are filled with rattan furniture, plush pillows, authentic art pieces, and slow-moving ceiling fans, but the spring weather was too good to settle inside. Our brunch for two on a sunny terrace turned into a small feast. We followed some suggestions from our server, Julia Tanase, and ordered Cha Gio Tom Cua – crispy shrimp and pork rolls, served under a green flower of fresh salad leaves, and Banh Cuon – steamed rice paper ravioli, filled with diced chicken meat, bean sprouts and herbs. Both appetizers were delicious.
Both beef soup Pho Bo with oxtail, rare tenderloin, and rice noodle, and Bo Luc Lac – cubed and seared filet mignon in a sweet garlic soy sauce were tasty and beautifully presented by the sous chef Alfredo Vazquez. And then it was time for dessert. Julia told us about the pastry chef Martha Cisneros whose career at Le Colonial extends to 10 years now, but her Vietnamese flourless chocolate cake topped with whipped cream and a fried banana wrapped in a crispy wonton spoke even louder.
The sky above the glass roof was blue with wisps of white, the air was warm and calm, and the food was good. We looked around – people at other tables didn’t seem to hurry even after their doggy bags were delivered, so we lingered a little more, soaking in the atmosphere and enjoying the now available sunny side of Le Colonial – a weekend brunch.
For a dinner crowd, there is live music in the lounge Monday through Friday, a DJ on Friday and Saturday and, as weather permits, seating on the heated outdoor patio and veranda. Le Colonial is located at 20 Cosmo Place between Sutter and Post and Jones and Taylor. Open nightly for dinner, Sunday through Wednesday from 5:30 to 10:00 p.m. and Thursday through Saturday, 5:30 to 11:00 p.m. The lounge, known for exotic cocktails, opens at 5:00 p.m. Brunch is served on Saturday and Sunday from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Valet parking is available. Private functions are a specialty of the house. For more information and reservations, visit lecolonialsf.com or call (415) 931-3600.
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